Espana 2012

Departure @ San Francisco, United States, California

2012-04-23T08:48:17.000Z

I am leaving today! The day has come so fast, I don't feel prepared. As I finish up some last minute things, I thought I'd procrastinate and enter my first journal entry. Fingers crossed!

Bilbao, Spain @ Bilbao, Spain

2012-04-24T18:37:06.000Z

Arrived in Spain without any blips and am on the bus to San Sebastian now after a lovely couple hours in Bilbao. I'm terribly jetlagged/groggy from hardly sleeping last night or on the planes (too excited?) but I popped an Advil and spent a couple hours at the Guggenheim. The weather was drizzly when I arrived but it has now cleared up to blue skies. Awesome.

San Sebastian, Spain @ San Sebastian, Spain

2012-04-25T16:21:00.000Z

Looks (and after a couple drops feels) like rain! Sitting near the beach for some reflection in my last hour here after muchos pintxos, Rioja, biking around town and a walk up Mt. Urgull. God, I love the sound of the ocean.

St. Jean Pied de Port @ Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France

2012-04-26T10:04:59.000Z

Including this one so I can document the entire trip. Because of train connections, I couldn't get a train there until this morning so an unplanned detour last night in Hendaye, France. I'm so used to trying to speak Spanish that the very little French I know escaped me and I kept defaulting to Spanish. Ha!

Roncesvalles @ Roncesvalles (Roncesvaux), Spain

2012-04-26T22:12:14.000Z

Survived Day 1. Crossing the Pyrenees is no joke. I'm so impressed by the older people who are here. While hiking in the mountains in the fog can be magical, I'm not gonna lie. It was pretty damn unpleasant for a good portion of my almost eight hours of hiking. Rain almost all day and the ridiculous wind which made it even colder. The snow that hadn't melted yet and the mud trenches from all the rain. Good times. Then on the way down, it stopped raining. And through the fog, I caught a glimpse of the church/dormitory. I was so happy, I started to sing. Aloud. That's how happy I was. No one was around, I didn't care. "I'm so happy! I'll be there in the hour! I'm so happy! I'll be there in the hour!" then, my chill-addled brain morphed it into the tune of "Frere Jacques". Sing with me now! "I'm al-most the-re. I'm al-most the-re. Al-most there. Al-most there! I am almost the-re. I am al-most the-re. Al-most there. Al-most there." I sang that for a good ten minutes. Then shower, dinner and mass en espanol. Maybe it's because of all the older people but lights out by ten. I can't sleep yet! Lucky for me there's free wireless while I try to distract myself from all the snoring. I bet you wish you were here. :)

Arre, Spain @ Arre, Spain

2012-04-27T23:15:57.000Z

So ask me sometime about the unabridged story about me and the Japanese man. I think it's funny (confirmed by two Korean girls I met at dinner) but it's too late and I'm tired from walking almost 40km. For those of you keeping track at home, that's almost 25 miles. With my pack. The day after I crossed the Pyrenees in rain and wind. Needless to say, I need to get to bed (after some stretching!). I need to be back in walking shape for tomorrow. I kept thinking about it at dinner and laughing to myself. Although, I will close with the fact that the girls were impressed by both my Korean and Spanish skills so I feel affirmed. Or maybe it was pity because of how far I had walked. Regardless, let's compromise with impressed with caveats (for not being born there and enough to get by)? P.S. I'm in another dorm tonight. I noticed this last night as well, but it's even more apparent because I have stayed up so much later than everyone else. Maybe it's the high percentage of "older" people or I haven't slept in a room of 20+ people in a long time, but it's a regular orchestra of snoring and farting. Someone just farted again as I was typing that last sentence!

Estella, Spain @ Estella, Spain

2012-04-29T21:21:12.000Z

So. I'm realizing that the more memorable food is likely in the larger cities. Since San Sebastian, my best meal was some more pintxos+Rioja I had for lunch in Pamplona while passing through. The smaller places are just that, small. Sometimes very small. Two of the dinners I've had are the "menu del dia or de pelegrinos" which the hostel or some other nearby restaurant provides for the masses. The food is..well, food best prepared en masse. Haha, so American food. I've had fried fish, grilled fish, pasta in tomato sauce, all always with French fries. Not to say I didn't eat every last edible morsel because I was famished. It's too bad I got here on a Sunday as a lot of things are closed and it's the largest city since Pamplona. I chose poorly at some bar, so won't even waste the time to write about it. I am pretty excited for Logrono though. Next big city. :D other than that, lots of rain. Lots of countryside. I took advantage of being in a bigger place to sleep in a hotel tonight so I can properly launder and dry(!) my clothes. The rainy weather hasn't helped in ensuring everything's dry by morning. :( also, my feet felt like bricks all day today so I'm hoping I can pick up some gel soles tomorrow. PS. In Pamplona, I visited two churches. One had a wedding going on and the other, a celebration for a 50th wedding anniversary. Isn't that a cute bookended experience to remember the city by?

Navarette (12.7km from Logrono) @ Logroño, Spain

2012-05-01T21:46:13.000Z

1. No rain for the last two days!! Periods of sprinkles but nothing to bust out the gear for.
2. The stretch between Estella and Torres de Rio has been my favorite so far. The sky looked so lovely against the fields of green grass. Start of wine country but still mountains in the backdrop. I have a lot of pictures of clouds. I couldn't stop taking them. Lovely. Couldn't help but hum. :D
3. There are a surprising number of Koreans here. I think I have run into at least one per day.
4. I was at the same table as a very sweet old Italian man for dinner last night who tried to give me pointers as this wasn't his first camino. he did not have a left arm beyond the elbow. Needless to say, I was both awed and humbled. When my feet or back started hurting and whatever annoyances I had today (including two instances in Logrono - yelling "konichiwa!" after I've passed you doesn't count as a friendly gesture), I reminded myself how very lucky I am. Period.
PS. I found out from two different sources yesterday that the day we were crossing the Pyrenees, three different people needed ambulances. Hypothermia, heart condition and panic attack. I had seen the ambulances as I had to step aside to let them through but I thought they were going to the village and not actually picking up hikers!! No joke indeed. :( Thank goodness I survived unscathed! Lucky and blessed x 2.

Belorado, Spain @ Belorado, Spain

2012-05-03T17:49:34.000Z

1. Thank goodness I bought the new boots. With the different terrain and my famous grace issues, there are so many times I could've gotten hurt. That passed through my head several times today. Also, people are starting to hobble about and limp. I (knock on wood) have been able to avoid the painful blisters and am only hobbling from my idiotic pace. Hopefully though, I've generated enough buffer for flexibility later in the trip and I can take things slower like the last two days where I've been taking "cafe con leche" (mid-morning) or "cerveza" (mid-afternoon) breaks where possible. Only reasonable distances starting today!
2. The walk in and out of Santo Domingo de la Calzada was so pretty. I kept taking pictures because it looked fake. Like the Windows wallpaper. This morning's walk out included crossing a river with a view of the mountains to my left, farmlands to my right. Lovely.
3. Raining again, but I'm awesomely already in the albergue. I'm hoping it doesn't continue through tomorrow as it's been SO freaking nice not walking in the rain for hours on end. Also, it's been nice being able to hang socks off my bag to finish drying (although I lost a sock yesterday).
4. The trend of Koreans continues. Some of the older people have been very sweet and wanting to keep meeting up (I think they feel sorry for me for being alone) as I've passed breaks or meals with them but for the most part, I've apologized while saying, "if it's fate, we'll meet again." Thank you, Korean dramas, for that most useful phrase.

Burgos, Spain @ Burgos, Spain

2012-05-05T17:14:02.000Z

1. Rainy, cold and windy the last two days. Thank goodness today was into Burgos where I had planned on spending a longer detour. Unfortunately, no buses to the monastery where the monks famously released the cd of gregorian chants (60km south). Next time. Instead, I've spent the afternoon pintxo/tapas hopping from bar to bar, trying to avoid the rain. I am currently in one with wine for one euro! I love Spain!
2. I'm so endeared by some of the older people I've met. I'm bunking by the cutest Japanese couple (73 and 75) and two nights ago, this couple from Mexico City invited me to stay with them if I ever visited. He gave me all his contact info within like 20 min of meeting! (side note: I wouldn't want my parents or grandparents making such offers or giving their info so readily, but I guess it's all the camaraderie?)
3. My pace in the rain seems quicker. Probable causes: a) I'm very motivated to get to shelter and b) I'm not so daydreamy as I am when the weather's nice, stopping less to take pictures, etc. Yesterday, at one point, it was pouring and we were in the woods so I just kept my head down and made up a poem about my walking poles, perfecting it for like twenty minutes. It's called "Ode to my walking poles" and I had it memorized so it made it into the journal.
PS: I'm approximately one third done (not counting the extra 90+km to Finisterre). Can't believe it! Calls for a celebratory copa de Rioja. Una mas por favor!

San Nicolas del Real Camino @ San Nicolás del Real Camino, Spain

2012-05-10T18:40:14.000Z

1. I guess it was fate! Since Burgos is a major city, the next morning was a regular who's who of Koreans I had met along the way. Spent the last couple days continually running into all of them. I also ran into some younger kids (mid-20s) who were amusing. The older girl was quite sweet and it turned out we are kindred spirits. We broke off from the pack and walked and talked today. She was filling me in on some crazy Korean society quirks and how even though it's a "democracy," it's kind of not. Too long to write but basically the government controls the media. And society is still pretty influenced by the jaebol families like how some mother@&&$ing guy beat up one of the striking workers in one of his family's factories for fun and then threw money at him. WTF?! She said he wasn't punished nor was it really in the news. There is like a semi-revolution going on online which is kind of cool.
2. The days were pretty rainy and cold until yesterday. Today was freaking hot and sunny and we are in the Meseta which is kind of like the Plains(? Not verified) So, very little shade. I have got some funky tan lines going on. I wish I had prepared like some of the other Asians with face masks, etc. I know they look funny but I'm paranoid about the wrinkles and skin cancer!!
3. I stayed in a place run by nuns last night and it was a fantastic place. I had read about it online and wasn't disappointed. No bunk beds! Separate bathrooms! Carrion de Los Condes seems to be a pretty religious place. They had a mass with a special blessing ceremony for pilgrims where one of the nuns was playing a recorder. Nice and calming.
4. I walked 6km more than most others today because I wanted to have more time in Sahagun tomorrow. BEST decision. While it was a long (and hot) walk, there appears to only be one other couple here. It's a cute albergue with a garden, clean, modern, free wifi and because it's just us, I currently have an entire room to myself! Fan-freaking-tastic. I'm elated. Especially because I haven't slept well the last couple nights. I think everyone's tired because it's been a regular symphony of snorers ( myself probably included). It's also nice not having the loud din of people talking. I think the French couple is in the bar because I only hear birds outside. :D
5. I passed the halfway mark today. I sometimes find myself daydreaming about having some Rioja and pintxos in Barcelona, not wearing my boots or my pack or dry fit clothing. Soon! In the meantime, I'm trying to soak up as much nature and fresh air as possible.

Leon @ León, Spain

2012-05-13T16:26:57.000Z

1. Another major city so a reunion of people I've seen along the way. This city is so cute!! I had had a couple days of poor dietary choice so I am currently splurging at a hip restaurant/bar (with free wifi!) drinking wine and devouring a cheese plate while waiting for the cathedral to open for tourists. Was in there for mass earlier, but decided to visit the other museum first. San Isidoro was pretty interesting in that they had frescoes on the ceiling (in surprisingly good shape) that hadn't been refinished. Neat to think that you're staring at something others have for hundreds of years before you. I thought it totally worth the admission and wished the two people I had been with had decided to come in.
2. For a while, I had been thinking of staying in a hotel since this was a big city. The privacy, the no curfew, the later checkout time, the no other people getting up and noisily getting ready starting at five in the morning. But I realized it was one of my last opportunities to stay in a monastery, so I'm in there tonight. Vespers at 7pm and a special prayer session at 9:30 with gregorian chants. I think it'll be calming and interesting which I need because
3. I got in a slight altercation with another pilgrim yesterday because he littered right in front of me. Imagine how much I hate littering and then add the context of my walking and enjoying nature for the last two weeks. I was livid and yelled after him to carry his trash. He responded with a nonchalant "it's trash." Needless to say, we exchanged words several times over about half an hour as he and I exchanged leads culminating with him telling me "lady, are you still mad? This is Europe. You have your opinion and I have my opinion. I respect your opinion. Can you respect mine?" I said no quite huffily (in addition to gesticulating about beautiful nature and how his litter was so small) and blasted off. I didn't want to see his mug anymore. Oh yeah, before this, he had shrugged off my complaint as well as pointed to other litter while saying,"see?" and "what about this?" By the time i got to the city outskirts, I was sweaty from the madcap pace, early, and felt guilty. So, courtesy of my rage, I did 35km because I had kept walking until afternoon. I recalled the escapade to some others this morning and they said I was in the right which makes me feel a little better since they're European. But, I still feel a little guilty so I'll reflect during quiet time tonight.
4. As mentioned, it's been a reunion city. Fantastic thing about this is the various people you meet. Even though you may not talk, exchanging only an "hola!" or "buen camino" or whatever universal greeting because of the various languages, seeing them each time afterwards after seeing them a couple times is like seeing a friend so the "hola!" has more emphasis and joy. With the people you have spoken with, even small talk, it really does feel like a reunion of old friends for the moment and then you continue on your respective paths. Kind of a beautiful expression of humanity. Except for the litterer. I do NOT consider him a friend. :D

Astorga, Spain @ Astorga, Spain

2012-05-15T18:49:53.000Z

1. I think my favorite part of the day is the morning. I'm almost always alone, can usually hear the birds (if I'm not in a city), the morning crispness is still in the air, my feet don't hurt, the pack doesn't seem heavy, my pace is quick and I feel light hearted. One can't help but feel alive! Headed toward the mountains tomorrow. Excited!!
2. I had read online how people were talking about only bringing half a bar of soap because "every gram counts!" (for the record, they must've assumed replenishing with another half bar at some point) At the time, I remember thinking "whatever. I'm pretty sturdy. I'll take that full bar!" Now, I know what they mean. I've pretty much gotten the hang of packing my bag to better distribute the weight, but it's my over the shoulder bag carrying my water, books and food that causes me pain. I've gotten kind if stingy now about what snacks I have handy because I just don't want to carry it!! I have a running list of things I'd cross off next time, even in my pack. I've learnt my lesson: every gram does count! :)
3. Astorga is cute. Could be a good morning or afternoon stop to see the Cathedral and Gaudi's Palacio. The detail in the stained glass in the Palacio was spectacular. I wish they let us take photos. I wish I had a better camera (but I would not have wanted to carry it!). I wish I was better at photography. Then I could've shared them with you. Instead, try googling it? Haha.
4. Thankfully, I'm relatively unscathed (so far). You have to respect all the people, especially older ones, who are persevering each day with bandaging ALL over their toes and feet, packs that look heavier than mine, and sometimes grimaces of pain as they hobble about. I even talked to a man who had accidentally stepped on his own glasses after fixing his boot. His glasses had a crack along the bottom of one lens and it was held in the frame with some band aids. We must look like such a ragtag group to the native Spaniards in each town. I bet it's even worse in the summer when everyone is even more tired and sweaty. :D

Ponferrada, Spain @ Ponferrada, Spain

2012-05-17T22:36:55.000Z

Mountain region is so lovely. The small villages are so cute and quaint. Is that redundant? Anyway, thankfully the rumor was wrong about possible rain. Rocky inclines and downhills would've been even more treacherous wet, and I already had a couple close calls. So I survived that, the Pyrenees, have no foot injuries or issues so far and what happens?? I was in a candy store tonight when I was walking around town in my Toms and a broken cabinet door fell on my foot!! It hurt. A lot. The skin broke and I've got a welt and bruise at point of impact. Might have to moleskin it tomorrow because I lace my boots pretty tight. How ridiculous, huh? Luckily, I had chosen to stay in a hostel tonight since it's a bigger city and I hadn't since Estella(!). I am currently resting in the privacy of my own room. Awesome. :D

Ponte Campana @ Palas de Rei, Spain

2012-05-22T22:11:20.000Z

1. Sadly, my time in O'Cebreiro, a "hobbit hamlet" fittingly described by Rick Steves, was cut short. By the time I got there after a really lovely walk up the mountain, there were literally no beds at the inns. Any of them. Apparently, because it's so cute, locals also like to spend the night there so they had booked out a lot of the rooms for the night (Sat), leaving pilgrims like me stranded. Oh yes, let's not forget that the weather went from clear to rain to freezing rain/hail within an hour. Pilgrims were in bars trying to figure out what to do since the next two towns were already full. Luckily, I ran into some friends and we shared a cab to the third next town to grab some of the last beds in their unheated annex. That night was cold! I felt a little weird about not walking the 12 km but I have always taken the more natural routes (which are usually longer) and detours to sights so I'm pretty sure I'm more than covered. :) Plus. It looked really cold and fog had set in as well, so safe and logical won over pride.
2. We have passed the 100km mark, and I have seen a noticeably greater number of people since that's the minimum distance to get the compostela. Interestingly, my guidebook warns against being unfriendly to the new pilgrims. I can see what he meant as I initially also had a sense of intrusion but I certainly wasn't unfriendly!
3. I've walked ahead so I've added Muxia to my itinerary. Looking very much forward to it. Since we're closer to civilization, the walk has been more farms than natural wilderness the last two days. Which also means more dung everywhere. Being ahead also means that I'm less likely to see some of the people I've been seeing regularly these last few weeks which makes me kind of sad. Not that I knew most of their names, but seeing the same friendly faces at night or sporadically during the walk had been nice. We had always exchanged small talk or at least a "que tal?"
4. That movie. Until now, I hadn't met too many Americans but the number of American accents I hear now has increased. Almost all of the ones I've talked to decided to come after watching the movie. Don't know if I feel more sorry for Spain or pleased since it'll help their economy. Torn.
PS. Some of you will find this funny. That night we froze, the kitchen staff at the albergue thought I looked like an actress. Even though I said I wasn't her, one guy still insisted on taking a picture with me. Apparently, syndicated American medical dramas make it all the way up to the Galician mountain villages. So, if you ever visit Fonfria, I was told my picture will be on their reception wall. I was of course kind of mortified but my friends found it hilarious. Thought you would too.

Santiago de Compostela, Spain @ Santiago de Compostela, Spain

2012-05-24T19:33:42.000Z

Made it. :) Feeling very thankful, blessed and tired. I had heard that they give the pilgrims who earn the compostela a shout out so pushed myself to arrive today so I can hear it in mass tomorrow. I'll be taking my first break day tomorrow to check out the sights and pilgrim watch before heading out toward Finisterre on Sat. Excited for my first day sans pack and boots! It's been really hot the last two days and yesterday was really long unintentionally so I'm taking a break. I'm especially enjoying the Galician food including pulpo, caldo (soup), and the tarta de Santiago which is delish. I wish they sold it in SF. There's also some carnival randomly going on in the park where I saw a stand selling chocolate churros. I will let you know how they are as I'm going to walk by the park again as an after dinner stroll. :p

Muxia @ Muxía, Spain

2012-05-28T21:03:46.000Z

I love the ocean. The sound of the waves crashing against the rocks make a nice backdrop for a sunset picnic. In 32 days, I have walked from the mountain border to the ocean. One more day and I reach "land's end," Finisterre. Then you can call me Forrest, Forrest Gump, because I just don't feel like walking no more. After 33 days of walking, I'm going to be taking a damn bus back. :) Galician weather, that temperamental minx, had been cold and pouring rain for two days prior but was clear today. I hope it holds out for tomorrow as well.

Finisterre, Spain @ Finisterre, Spain

2012-05-29T18:04:31.000Z

El fin en Finisterre. It had been cold and rainy during the day but cleared up in time for sunset which was beautiful. Ready to not live the "camino lifestyle" anymore. Barcelona, here I come!