Leah walks the Camino de Santiago

Aire-sur-l'Adour, France @ Aire-sur-l'Adour, France

2012-03-08T18:52:50.000Z

I've arrived at my starting point after a nice day of travel and a castle visit. No one else here - 2 early 4 pilgrims yet. Looking forward to an early start.

Miramont-Sensacq, France @ Miramont-Sensacq, France

2012-03-09T22:37:31.000Z

After lentils, pasta and a couple of glasses of wine I am uber content with my day, if fatigued! Full of smiles and rich with contemplation xx

Arzacq-Arraziguet, France @ Arzacq-Arraziguet, France

2012-03-10T22:38:18.000Z

Hard work - very sunny and hot - but only did 15km so tomorrow will be harder. Very nice gite - still on my own.

Maslacq, France @ Maslacq, France

2012-03-12T19:55:26.000Z

Tranquil and rural. Warm again today but I was better prepared except I need a sunhat! All I've got is a woolly one - not much use.

Navarrenx, France @ Navarrenx, France

2012-03-13T19:58:16.000Z

Oh my God I am exhausted! Met my first fellow pilgrim today though. Gite communal closed so in a luxurious normal gite, twice as expensive.

A tenth of the way there! And in the swing of it. There is definitely a rhytym to it and I'm glad to have been alone up to now so I could find mine.

St Palais @ lon: -1.03 lat: 43.33

2012-03-15T20:02:52.000Z

Tonight a night of utter luxury costing €50 ouch. It's off season so not all gites are open.

Ostabat-Asme, France @ Ostabat-Asme, France

2012-03-16T20:06:27.000Z

Very short day walking but tomorrow a bit further. Much more comfortable weather.

Very interesting conversation with man at the luxurious B&B today - he gave me a book called Le Christ Philosophe. It's excellent so far! And really perfect timing.

Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France @ Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France

2012-03-17T20:08:42.000Z

Arrived in St Jean Pied de Port - extremely cute and medievally. Quiet day resting. Tomorrow is big and scary but I am confident I can do it. Met a pilgrim from Leeds earlier.

Valcarlos (Luzaide), Spain @ Valcarlos (Luzaide), Spain

2012-03-19T20:11:36.000Z

Crossing the mountains! Here I am in Spain - this is where I am going to have lunch, oh yes!

lon: -1.33 lat: 43.04 @ lon: -1.33 lat: 43.04

2012-03-19T20:23:57.000Z

4.8km to my destination - over a mountain, mind! Up to 1040m then of course down quite a bit too.

1040m and it's snowing up here. In fact a snow plough just went past. Jesus wept. That was hard work!

Roncesvalles (Roncesvaux), Spain @ Roncesvalles (Roncesvaux), Spain

2012-03-19T20:25:44.000Z

Here I am in the monastery that's been welcoming pilgrims for centuries. Very pleased with myself. Just eaten fish and chips with 2 Canadians and a Dutch woman.

By far the hardest so far. Glad it's over.

Zubiri, Spain @ Zubiri, Spain

2012-03-20T20:25:56.000Z

Arrived safe. Very sleepy and tired. Will find a snack and have a nap.

Arre, Spain @ Arre, Spain

2012-03-21T20:27:09.000Z

In a rather cold monastery having got wet on the way here. Had a lovely day though, in spite of sore feet.

Pamplona, Spain @ Pamplona, Spain

2012-03-22T20:28:29.000Z

Hardly walked today, having a day off really. Very tired and quite low but I know this will pass and all shall be well.

Estella, Spain @ Estella, Spain

2012-03-24T20:29:49.000Z

Another long day, and hot too. Today was really hard so day off 2moro. Lots of interesting things here.

Estella, Spain @ Estella, Spain

2012-03-25T20:31:21.000Z

Staying in a little pension - such luxury. Like towels! And a bed not a bunk! Mass at 11.30 then a whole day here. Yay.

Unexpected side effect of the pilgrimage. Walking for hours every day heading West means developing a tan - but only on the left side of you body!

Los Arcos, Spain @ Los Arcos, Spain

2012-03-26T20:33:38.000Z

Waiting for the albergue to open... Fine day of walking though still find 20km pretty difficult and today I did 22! Tired feet.

Viana de Duero, Spain @ Viana de Duero, Spain

2012-03-27T20:34:36.000Z

Another hot day. Learnt 2 lessons - set off earlier and don't try to walk with anyone in the morning.

Logroño, Spain @ Logroño, Spain

2012-03-28T20:41:16.000Z

Short walk today. Arrived very early and hung around in churches. Then an elderly couple stopped to talk to me and invited me for lunch. Now they've invited me to stay! They're very lovely and have done the camino themselves several times.

Learning Spanish fast!

Ventosa, Spain @ Ventosa, Spain

2012-03-29T20:43:18.000Z

Lovely albergue :-) glad to have arrived! Feet sore, heart full.

Azofra, Spain @ Azofra, Spain

2012-03-30T20:44:33.000Z

Lovely albergue - bed not bunks! Very small town but bars & shops 4 pilgrims. Blisters galore however.

Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Spain @ Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Spain

2012-03-31T20:45:36.000Z

A couple of short days for me. i did just 15km today and will do 6 tomorrow. I will breakfast in the parador too.

Bad feet :-( Not sure why after 3 weeks it should get bad. I've been very brutal and sent some more stuff home in case it's the weight in my rucksack.

You know, the worst thing isn't the pain of the blisters, it's worrying about them and what I should do and what if I can't finish...

Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Spain @ Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Spain

2012-03-31T20:49:39.000Z

Aaah - lovely foot specialist came to the hostel and treated my blisters. It hurt. I swore. But I think all will be well.

I miss you all very much (but you are all in my heart).

Grañón, Spain @ Grañón, Spain

2012-04-01T20:51:11.000Z

This is not an albergue - it's a pilgrim hostel. We sleep on mats on the floor, when there's lots of people you might even sleep in the church. At 7 we all cook. At 8 we eat together. Breakfast too! And prayers after dinner. I'm in a little pilgrim heaven!

lon: -3.10 lat: 42.42 @ lon: -3.10 lat: 42.42

2012-04-02T20:53:37.000Z

Did a very short walk again today. Tiny village, church is closed, no bar or shop.

The birthplace of Santo Domingo who built a lot of roads for pilgrims and who had the city named after him. The albergue was funded by Paolo Coelho! I've left him a message in a book :-) Wood burning stoves too!

Villambístia, Spain @ Villambístia, Spain

2012-04-03T22:30:15.000Z

OK so I think I might have bed bugs again. The first albergue turned me away because of it and the second one tried to turn me away as well. I was imagining no one wanting me and having to walk forever and I burst into tears. If no one helps me, I can't do anything to fix it...

Anyway the waterworks worked and now I'm sitting in a warm bar in someone else's clothes whilst all of mine are washed.

It really sucks. A shitty day.

San Juan de Ortega, Spain @ San Juan de Ortega, Spain

2012-04-04T13:39:55.000Z

A tiny hamlet with a huge monastery, now used as a pilgrim hostel. Heating on :-) but very basic and pretty dirty! All well.

Burgos, Spain @ Burgos, Spain

2012-04-05T22:31:39.000Z

Two hours of dull industrial suburbs to walk through. Excellent view of the cathedral for the procession arrival, when statues of Jesus and Mary meet.

Santo Domingo de Silos, Spain @ Santo Domingo de Silos, Spain

2012-04-07T23:06:22.000Z

(Side trip to spend Easter near a monastery famous for its plainsong) Ah luxury - two nights in my own room with my own bathroom! It's making like it's Christmas out there - hope I don't get snowed in.

Santo Domingo de Silos, Spain @ Santo Domingo de Silos, Spain

2012-04-08T22:11:13.000Z

Had a lovely evening with an English couple from Shropshire who have a house in Extremadura. So sweet. You have to stay open to encounters in a way you wouldn't usually at home. Anyone could help you and you may well need that help.

Rabé de las Calzadas, Spain @ Rabé de las Calzadas, Spain

2012-04-09T22:09:36.000Z

Nearly wept with joy to find some hummus in the supermarket! Of course it added significantly to the weight of my pack but hey!

Hontanas, Spain @ Hontanas, Spain

2012-04-10T12:24:32.000Z

Arrived after walking four hours into a strong cold wind & through a lot of rain & carrying a lot of mud. Chatting with a Swiss guy lifted my spirits.

Oh my ... a huge thunderstorm. So glad I got here when I did. Do hope the pilgrims still on the way are OK.

Castrojeriz (Castrogeriz), Spain @ Castrojeriz (Castrogeriz), Spain

2012-04-11T15:46:35.000Z

Cafe in Castrojeriz, lounge music in the background, meeting with a woman from Accrington (REALLY??? YES!) all seems very surreal and still around 20k to destination..........feeling disconnected from my friends and reality

Boadilla del Camino, Spain @ Boadilla del Camino, Spain

2012-04-11T16:02:28.000Z

2 1/2 hours of wind and rain into my face. Feeling kind of pleased with myself now. I am just so damn persistent! I am currently enjoying the BEST CUP OF EARL GREY TEA EEEEEVER!

Sorry for shouting, but man, I'm in heaven.

Villacazar de la Sirga @ Frómista, Spain

2012-04-12T15:43:14.000Z

Unremarkable day - no rain, not much sun, plain simple landscape. Another 20km done. I've just rewarded myself with tapas and a glass of white wine.

Frómista, Spain @ Frómista, Spain

2012-04-12T15:50:21.000Z

Here is a photo of a sculpture on the 11th century church of St Martin in Fromista. A donkey playing a harp with the people next to him covering their ears! Hope you can see them!

Nice morning so far - less wind, no rain.

Carrión de los Condes, Spain @ Carrión de los Condes, Spain

2012-04-13T16:06:04.000Z

My back is unbelievably stiff today. This feels like a metropolis after all the villages.

Sahagún, Spain @ Sahagún, Spain

2012-04-14T11:09:41.000Z

These villages you pass through tend to seem rather depressed but there is a beautiful melancholy in some of the sights. Short walk punctuated by a lovely stop in a hostal run by a german lady where I had muesli with hot soya/rice milk and banana :-)

Terradillos de Templarios, Spain @ Terradillos de Templarios, Spain

2012-04-14T16:07:12.000Z

Good day's walking in company with some amusing and interesting Australians. I've done another 26.5lm. Fatigued but happy.

El Burgo Ranero, Spain @ El Burgo Ranero, Spain

2012-04-16T11:13:01.000Z

Bloody blister! Taking it super slow till the next town with a pharmacy.

In a room with a group of older Spanish men. Sprayed insecticide around so maybe I'll remain bed bug free.

Yay!!! Big Dave the Geordie has given me an anti-bedbug sheet :-) :-) Life is good :-)

Mansilla de las Mulas, Spain @ Mansilla de las Mulas, Spain

2012-04-17T11:17:22.000Z

The Blister is still present and incorrect. But whatever. More important for now is getting some kind of sleep. Nap time.

PS very happy to find a KETTLE here :-)

León, Spain @ León, Spain

2012-04-18T11:19:29.000Z

I am currently sprawled all over a double bed, absolutely astonished at the luxury :-) Worth every cent of my €20 I can tell you. Boy, will I sleep well tonight!

La Virgen del Camino, Spain @ La Virgen del Camino, Spain

2012-04-19T11:05:18.000Z

La Virgen del Camino, Spain @ La Virgen del Camino, Spain

2012-04-19T16:49:35.000Z

Set off late today after a late night. Visiting Leon today, lunch with friends from Bristol who are flying home tomorrow. Walked a bit with a pilgrim from Brno who I last saw on 1 April.

Hospital de Órbigo, Spain @ Hospital de Órbigo, Spain

2012-04-20T16:56:00.000Z

Phew - that felt like a long way. And indeed it was - just arrived after an 8 1/2 hour day in Hospital de Orbigo. Very lovely long medieval bridge.

Astorga, Spain @ Astorga, Spain

2012-04-21T16:58:31.000Z

There's lots of Roman stuff here that I look forward to visiting. Today was about rainbows and little hills and baby cows - one licked me :-)

So relieved to have finished the flat windy meseta. Tomorrow will be mountains again - in fact I'll go higher than I did over the Pyrenees! But I start higher up so it shouldn't be too bad.

Rabanal del Camino, Spain @ Rabanal del Camino, Spain

2012-04-22T17:01:35.000Z

Higher than I've been before on my walk - 1149m. Tomorrow I climb up to 1517m. Today, beetle, sheep bells and a butterfly.

Molinaseca, Spain @ Molinaseca, Spain

2012-04-23T17:02:53.000Z

Had a lovely day walking, even with all the wind and everything. The scenery today was breathtaking.

Cacabelos, Spain @ Cacabelos, Spain

2012-04-24T17:04:14.000Z

Long but pleasant day in company, walking through vineyards and seeing a templar castle.

Villafranca del Bierzo, Spain @ Villafranca del Bierzo, Spain

2012-04-25T17:05:45.000Z

Another lovely day through vineyards and have now arrived in a gorgeous town nestled in between hills with a castle and everything...

Short break @ Villafranca del Bierzo, Spain

2012-04-26T09:13:47.000Z

(Leah took a few days off from the Camino to got to France to play at Fondation Royaumont)

La Faba, Spain @ La Faba, Spain

2012-05-03T09:15:14.000Z

Today walking was just like being around Silverdale - trees, rivers, stone walls, RAIN! Climbed half a mountain in the last half hour of my walk.

Tríacastela, Spain @ Tríacastela, Spain

2012-05-04T09:18:42.000Z

Grim grim grim day crossing mountain in sleet, snow and constant rain. Had nice company though in the form of an older British guy so spirits were kept up. Brandy at lunchtime helped!

Sarria, Spain @ Sarria, Spain

2012-05-05T09:19:41.000Z

Did a very stupid thing and missed the village I meant to stay in! Think I've done nearly 40km today. What an idiot! Am totally exhausted.

Narón, Spain @ Narón, Spain

2012-05-06T09:41:29.000Z

Less than 100km to go! Arrived in Ventas de Naron and am having a room to myself. Beautiful countryside again today :-) still rainy.

Melide, Spain @ Melide, Spain

2012-05-07T09:43:16.000Z

Arrived to discover a party going on! It was really hard work today so I didn't say no to a glass of wine before I've even seen my room. Eating very good octopus. Hope to do 32km tomorrow.

lon: -8.35 lat: 42.92 @ lon: -8.35 lat: 42.92

2012-05-08T09:45:24.000Z

The rain is bloody awful but I'm walking with a couple of great people so all is well. Just having a snack then another half hour.

Yes! Done around 32km today - only 22km left. High on endorphins!

Santiago de Compostela, Spain @ Santiago de Compostela, Spain

2012-05-09T17:15:02.000Z

Arrived at the Cathedral. Pilgrimage completed.