Start of the Trip - CollingwoodKaramea - Heaphy TrackRolling River, WangapekaMurchison, New ZealandLewis passArthurs PassRakaia RiverLake Clearwater, New ZealandLake Ohau, New ZealandWanaka, New ZealandArrowtown, New ZealandTe Anau, New ZealandTuatapere, New ZealandTe Waewae Bay
 | walk4kiwis |  | A long walk to Save the Kiwis |  | Rakaia River |
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Feb 13 2010, 11:06 AM
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Lake Coleridge, New Zealand
We had to cross several old and not so old slips and avalanche paths. Once up into the bush it was easy walking along benched tracks and bridged creek crossings. I have been really impressed with the Arthurs Pass National Park’ standard of track and hut upkeep. Although nowhere near as heavily used as some of the other national parks in the South Island, they have all been up to a high standard and I really can’t think of anything negative to say about them. Long may it stay this way! A lunch stop at the "quaint" old Cass Saddle hut and it was up over the pass itself.
We were accompanied for a fair bit of this stretch by a flock of 10 keas. They kept their distance but made sure we knew they were around with their melodious song. As much as I love these clowns of the mountains I am a lot happier when there is a wee bit of distance between us. I have in the past personally experienced the odd close encounter with these dear sweet creatures. How wonderful it is to return to your tent or bivvy to find that a flock of keas had paid a visit in your absence. If you are VERY lucky, you MIGHT find something that is still recognizable! The cloud was sitting right down on the pass (1326 meters) so we didn’t dally around long and again, the "wonderful views" were non-existent.
Heading down the Hamilton River was similar to the way up. The forest was pretty much all mountain beech with the odd mountain toa-toa thrown in. It was along this stretch of track we saw the only NZ falcon we have seen on the trek so far. The interesting thing about this particular part of the forest was the understory. In some places the small trees were so thick it would have been impossible to walk through and a couple of hundred meters down the track, there wasn’t a young tree to be seen. The other thing I love about beech forest is the great variety of fungi that is about.
We arrived at the Hamilton hut about 5pm. A lovely comfortable hut set up on a terrace overlooking the Hamilton River. There were 3 DoC staff in residence there repainting the outside of the hut plus 3 young ladies from Landcare Corp. doing research on some vegetation blocks up the valley. 2 of these ladies were from France and the 3rd was English. Haven’t we got anyone in NZ who can do this sort of work? Seems strange to me we have to get overseas people in to study NZ flora. Maybe I am just a grumpy, cynical old bugger after all. Anyway this was the first hut we had to share for sometime!
When we arrived I was sure I recognized the senior DoC ranger, but, as the years advance, the memory retreats, so I couldn’t place him, but knew damn well I had seen him some time in the past. A couple of hours later I was flicking through the hut book and saw his name and everything clicked into place! In my very first update about a million years ago, I said that I first wanted to do this walk 30 years ago. (Actually I exaggerated a bit, it was only 24 years ago!) The guy I planned to do it all with was a fellow guide working with me at the time for Greenstone Valley Walks. Jim Henderson and I did a couple of seasons together and then as often happens, went our separate ways and the whole plan just remained a dream for me until now. And now, bugger me, here was Jim Henderson sitting opposite me in the Hamilton hut in the middle of the A.P.National Park! He had gone on to do some pretty amazing things over the past 24 years. Two 1-year stints down on the ice in Antarctica, a year on Campbell Island, working for DoC in some of the most interesting places in NZ and even a stint in Victoria, Australia fighting the bush fires there. It was fantastic catching up with him, particularly whilst in the middle of doing what I’m doing: The walk he and I planned all those years ago. Jim, if you read this, rest assured I WILL darken your doorstep again in the very near future. Catching up with you again after all these years really has been the highlight of my trek so far. I even intend hitting you up for some sponsorship!
The weather gods ceased smiling upon us that evening. They didn’t exactly start scowling, just frowning a little and I had to put my coat on for the first time in 5 weeks to do the radio sked! We were away from the hut before 7am next morning with the cloud and mist laying everywhere. The forecast was for more rain so we wanted to get out before the worst of it hit us. It never did eventuate. It was a very easy 21 km stroll out, mainly following a 4 wheel drive track all the way out. This did involve about 20+ river crossings but with there being no rain to speak of for weeks, these weren’t a problem. With this amount of river crossings the only sensible thing to do is plunge straight through the first one, get your feet wet right from the beginning and just wade through the rest. It is amazing how much time people waste trying to keep dry, only to slip on the second to last crossing! The water is bloody cold though and as Eric said "how can you get an ‘ice cream headache’ walking through water?
Unfortunately, because of the low cloud we missed ‘The Pinnacles’ a collection of weather worn rock pillars half way down the Harper valley. But this was more than compensated for by the continual changing moods of the valley with the mist and cloud swirling around.
Five hours later we arrived at the Harper Rd end and there was the very welcome sight of ‘The Mother ship’ parked there in the car park. Marilyn had driven it up from Christchurch that morning and arrived about an hour before us. What a luxury to be able to have a cup of real coffee and change into dry footwear.
Alas, it was here I was to suffer rejection as I have never experienced before. As it was lunch time, I dragged out the corn cakes, salami and peanut butter as I had done every day over the past week or so and told Eric to help himself, as I had done every day over the past week or so. Marilyn then offered him fresh bread with cheese and tomato sandwiches. WOULD YOU BELIEVE HE ACCEPTED THAT OVER MY OFFER!?
I was stunned beyond believe! This person I thought was my friend! This person I had puffed up mountain passes with, forded icy cold torrents with, listened to the calls of kiwis with, had rejected this kingly lunch we had dined on every day over the past week or more in favour of fresh sandwiches! There really is no understanding some folk.
So as not to appear a martyr, I had to accept Marilyn’s offer as well and grudgingly devoured about 6 of these. Eric has now returned to Auckland and in all seriousness I am really sorry to see him go. We had a great trip over the Harpers Pass and now down Harper river. He was great company and a fountain of knowledge when it comes to our fauna and flora. Thanks again Eric, I am sorry you couldn’t continue on down to the Rangitata as we hoped.
So, here we are on the banks of the Rakaia River and deciding what to do next. The weather forecast is for heavy rain and thunder tomorrow so I am leaning more towards just following the back country roads down to the Rangitata rather than go across country following the Te Araroa Trail through the Mt Hutt and Taylor Ranges. Trouble is, with all the fine weather I have been having, I think I am turning into a "fair weather sailor"!
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