Amazon Pilgrim: The Transamazonica 0 Belém, Brazil 20-SEP-2009 22:07:38 0 Arrived in Belem 22-SEP-2009 17:32:26 I made it to my hotel with all my stuff in one piece. Its not that hot here (like 90) and its been raining on and off since i landed. My portueguese has served me well so far but i have some technical problems with the laptop and SAT phone. . 0 Tudo Bem From Belém 23-SEP-2009 17:32:26 This is my first full day in Belem at the mouth of the Amazon river and at the edge of the jungle. So far I have assembled my bike (with some issues), figured out the land line (SAT phone is having issues) and took a quick ride around this huge city. http://amazonpilgrim.com/tudo-bem-from-belem/ 0 29th Birthday in Igarape-Miri 24-SEP-2009 21:23:52 Not only is it my birthday but also the day of the Acai Festival in Iagarpe-Miri. This was my first full day of cycling and the Amazon is HOT! I left Belem on a small boat (nearly losing my bike in the river while lifting it onto the roof) and for 2 USD I took a 2 hour ride through the twisting channels of a mid river island to reach the other side of the Amazon (sort of) to a town called Bacarena. From there my distance calculation were way off and I stopped here, in Igarape-Miri beacuse I was about to die. Right before town I stopped at a shack bar for some cokes and saw my first Amazon monkey (chained as a pet and miserable looking). http://amazonpilgrim.com/29th-birthday-in-igarape-miri/ 0 Cametá: Indians, Desert & 10,000 ants 25-SEP-2009 13:37:01 The ride from Igarape-Miri to Cameta´ was fairly easy going. I started at dawn to beat the absolutely life zapping sun and made it to the river Tocantins where I recieved some daunting news. http://amazonpilgrim.com/indians-and-desert/ 0 Joana Peres: One Hundred Mile Day & a Baptism of Fire on the Fazendas 26-SEP-2009 18:52:18 ... The road leaving Cameta´was a hard packed waffle iron type grid of packed clay. By 8am I had made 25 miles and crossed a few clean looking rivers. I had high hopes I would have a decent ride and not need all the extra water I was carrying... ...The road started to deteriorate (from bad to much worse) as I entered the fazendas... The sand is more like deep dust (like 8 inches or more). It´s extremely difficult to ride in and even more so when your bike weighs almost 100lbs (extra water on board, thank god). I took a spill and banged my shin when my load shifted under me…it´s hard to correct a loaded bike when it slips in the sand... http://amazonpilgrim.com/one-hundred-mile-day-and-a-baptism-of-fire-on-the-fazendas/ 0 Tucuruí: Kidney Splitting 105 Degrees in the Shade 27-SEP-2009 19:09:41 After leaving the town of 50km I headed south to Tucurui with about 1L of fluids…bad idea. I have found that my perception of the conditions I´d be facing in the Amazon have been quite off. This has truly been a desert journey to this point... ...I now realize for the time being I have to change my plan. I can´t depend on camping, I can´t depend on water, I have to be ready to ride self contained until somewhere outside the fazendas. I prepared for a rainforest. I have water proof gear, a machete, a hammock for camping. I should have been preparing for absoulte waterless dust. I know it´s called the dry season but where are the rivers? ... More about this leg of the trip: http://amazonpilgrim.com/kidney-splitting-105-degrees-in-the-shade/ 0 Novo Repartimento: the true begining of the TransAmazonica 28-SEP-2009 19:17:21 I arrived in Novo Repartimento and the true begining of the TransAmazonica for me. It is a dusty town (aren´t they all) that truly does look like a set from an old west movie, with internet access. I drifted in covered in dust with my bandana over my face in true cowboy style. After a few minutes some guys gathered around and I got one to take a picture... More about this leg of the trip: http://amazonpilgrim.com/kidney-splitting-105-degrees-in-the-shade/ 0 Pacajá, Brazil 29-SEP-2009 17:31:58 0 Anapu, Brazil 30-SEP-2009 18:37:01 In anapu. My rear cargo rack has a crack in it and my kickstand is busted. the road here is rough! Tomorrow I am gonna stop the first chance I get so I am within striking distance of Altamira on Friday. 0 Roadside Stop between Anapu and Altamira, Brazil 02-OCT-2009 11:53:13 ...I the took 2L of cold drinking water he had given me and pushed my bike about 10 minutes up the next hill. There was a small patch of woods next to a fazenda fence and I decided this is where the road ends for me today. There was enough cover from the road so as not to be seen and I took my chances with the fazenda rancher. Once darkness fell I knew it would be very difficult to see my hammock. The night was interesting to say the least. As soon (I mean almost to the minute) that the sun went down every living thing imagineable starting making as much noise as it could. It was louder than a city street at rush hour, loud as a crowd of people, loud as my squeaky mangled bike. I thought I´d get about 4 minutes of sleep that night. However, after about 2 hours it quited down to just the crickets... Read more about this leg of the journey: http://amazonpilgrim.com/one-too-many-hills-and-first-night-in-the-hammock/ 0 Altamira, Brazil 03-OCT-2009 11:57:05 I packed my gear up from my first night out in the bush and took my sweet time pedaling the last kilometers to Altamira located on the Xingu river. After 9 straight days of cycling I was tired, almost 15lbs lighter, and needed food and rest. After getting to Altamira and seeing the sights I made a fairly efficient stop at the post office to mail home some last items I won´t be needing and began looking for a welder... Read more about this leg of the journey: http://amazonpilgrim.com/rest-and-repairs-in-altamira/ 0 Medicilândia, Brazil 04-OCT-2009 10:40:33 I made it to Medicilandia uneventfully and had a dinner of various grilled meats, something that looked and tasted like chicken feed, and an unkown juice served in a used plastic cup. I then sat back and watched the drunken Sunday night antics of a small town split down the middle by the TransAm (the amount of people driving dirt bikes and the level on intoxication of some of these drivers is truly awe inspiring.) 0 Uruará, Brazil 05-OCT-2009 13:42:37 ...I was hunched down laboring up a hill when two guys on a motorbike start idling beside me. This happens all the time and at this moment I was in no mood to talk so I ignored them and ground away at the peddles. Of course the typical questions come, “Where are you going, where did you come from, where do you live” etc. Then, the driver puts his hand on my back and starts gassing the bike up the hill. Right away I am laughing my ass off and trying to keep the bike straight through all the ruts and rocks. Once we reach the top he gives me a good shove and lets me steer the downhill. Then he times it so when I start to slow on the next up hill there he is with the assist... 0 Placas, Brazil 06-OCT-2009 19:44:01 With only 37 miles on my agenda for today I had time to take it easy. I tested my new Brazilian light weight woven cowboy hat, cracked open a Schin lager on the road, and watched the trucks roll past. I now find myself in the one horse town of Placas. There isn´t much to see or do in this town but I did notice a traveling circus with a Big Top set up just behind the main drag. With a little luck things will get lively later on.... Read more about this leg of the trip: http://amazonpilgrim.com/rollin-brazilian-style/ 0 Placas, Brazil 07-OCT-2009 13:50:07 I spent three more days on the road from Placas to reach Itaituba on the Tapajos river. The road did not improve of course and everyday seems to add a new element to my riding misery. It starts with heat, then dust, then hills, then washboard surface and potholes, then traffic, then immense road construction and angry road greedy drivers all mixed together into the beatiful mess that is the TransAm... http://amazonpilgrim.com/this-picture-was-very-hard-to-take/ 0 Rurópolis: Pacas That Go Bump in the Night 08-OCT-2009 09:55:52 From the fires and horse battles of Ruropolis I headed further west into more hills. I think the most memorable part of my journey will be the endless hills of the TransAm. I passed a hunter during the day with the creature that had woken me in a naked frenzy many nights earlier. He had bagged two and called them Pacas. In the photo we see the white underbelly of one, both were beheaded... 0 Itaituba: A Transvestite, Tattoo Face, and a Thorough Toothbrush 09-OCT-2009 09:57:32 When I reached the Tapajos River and the ferry to Itaituba there was a makeshift road block and a protest taking place for water rights in the impoverished area. Evidentally cyclists were immune from the protest and I crossed with some minor harresement from a very tactile Tranny on the ferry boat. I don´t think spandex shorts are common in rural northern Brazil and maybe I´ve been giving off the wrong impression... Read more: http://amazonpilgrim.com/itaituba-a-transvestite-tattoo-face-and-a-thorough-toothbrush/ 0 truck stop 14-OCT-2009 20:21:54 Deep into the Parque Nacional Da Amazonia I came face to face with one of the Amazon´s big cats. I had just finished a 12 hour day on the bike. I was trying to make some good distance through some of the most remote part of the jungle on the TransAm. My camp was set up and nightfall was less than 30 minutes away as a thunderstorm was just begining. Then I heard the punctuated roars. 0 Jacareacanga, Brazil 15-OCT-2009 20:27:31 Jacareacanga (Jacare´) is a fairly small town with a large percentage native indian population. It has a history for being a rough and tumble town, but I haven´t seen any evidence of it. My next stretch is nearly 800km to Humaita´on the Madeiros river with a small town of Apui along the way. I am using Jacare´to recover from some pretty significant exhaustion that has crept up on me. It has also been raining more than I have seen on the trip so far. Today it has been pouring for hours already which makes cycling an impossibility. The indian population here is supported by the Brazilian foundation FUNASA which attends to their health needs. From what I have observed so far the native indians operate in the same space as everyone else in Jacare´but completely seperate from the non-indian population. 0 Resu's farm 19-OCT-2009 20:28:47 I stopped by a small river to clean up before heading into the jungle for the night when I looked to my left and saw that I wasn´t alone. In a small shack there was a man sitting at his table, leaning out his “window” smiling. I set my bike down in the road (no one was going to be coming by) and walked over. He came to the gate, which was his door, and we both kind of chuckled. He immediately invited me in for coffee and some farinha biscuits he made. I briefly told him my story and then we sat and just watched the pigs run around. Eventually it started to rain again and he told me to bring my bike in from the road. I asked if it was ok if I camped in the yard and he said of course, I could set my hammock up in the front kitchen area, where the chickens and rooster fed, which seemed a million times better than the ant infested jungle! 0 Nearing Apui 20-OCT-2009 20:29:06 0 Apui 21-OCT-2009 20:31:12 I am now in Apui´ with an injured hamstring. I predict it will take more time than I have to heal so I will head out and try to take it easy on the bike for the next leg of the journey. I have trimmed some of my gear down by selling and giving away parts I don´t need. It´s not easy to be a salesman in a foreign language! After leaving Resu back at his lonely farm the inside tendon behind my right knee was red and visibly swollen. The chaffing from the ACE was an even worse problem, but I could still turn the pedals over so on I went. 0 Roadside camp 24-OCT-2009 20:32:16 At this point in the trip when I tell people where I have come from I watch their eyes dart up and down from head to toe. While in a pharmacy before leaving Apui´ the woman came from behind the counter while I was explaining my trip and stared at my face from less than 10 inches away. Then she says, “Bacana, Americano. Bacana.” It means, “Cool, American. Cool.” I saw her again later on that day and she yelled from the sidewalk, “Bacana, Americano.” I have to admit, I didn´t know what it meant until days later. The leg from Apui´ to Humaita´ had been a bit of a mental obstacle since Jacareacanga. From the map and any research I could gather on the internet there would be very little spread over this roughly 250 mile span. If it decided to rain, I´d be up a creek. If it was too dry, I´d be toasted on the road. However, everyone kept saying that is gets flatter. Everyone always says it´s flatter ahead. Maybe I have my adjectives mixed up. 0 2nd camp before Humaita 25-OCT-2009 20:33:20 Like Robert Frost says, “Nothing gold can stay” and with that my beautiful flat road disappeared and I was back into the hills. This time however, instead of the roller coaster ups and downs, I had long drawn out 1-2 mile gradual inclines. When you ask a motorist if the road is flat and they say yes, take it with a grain of salt. Those long gradual inclines grind away at your morale. I reached a town called KM 180, because it´s located 180 kilometers from Humaita´. I fill my water bottles at a gas station and try to answer the questions of a screaming kid in his early 20´s who’s clearly had a few too many beers for 11:30 am. He has no patience for my portuguese and I have no patience for his lack of volume control. I decided to push on for the day. By 2pm I had made 70 miles but was feeling the wear and tear. I plan to stop every ten miles to rest and eat in the shade. Ten miles sounds pretty wimpy but it was an hour and a half worth of effort on this day. 0 Humaita 26-OCT-2009 20:34:12 Humaita´ is a rather pretty city on the Rio Madeira (which means wood). For the past few days I have been catching up on my X-Tudo and ice cream eating, tried my hand at fishing, and have met some colorful people along the way. 0 Porto Velho, Brazil 30-OCT-2009 20:47:44 After almost exactly 12 hours since leaving Humaita´ I reached the ferry to go back across the Rio Madeira and into Porto Velho. My pedaling time was just over 11 hours. The ferry was crammed with tractor trailers, dirt bikes, other bicycles, pedestrians, and a bulldozer. When I rode into the downtown region I realized this was a very major city. I found a cheap hotel next to the bus terminal (Hotel Porto Rico, very classy at 20$ a night) and strolled to find some food. I quickly realized Porto Velho was indeed urban in every sense. On my block I passed 2 rather suspicious motels connected to rowdy bars. This morning I received some flattering words from two transvestites drinking beers at said motel. Always a nice ego boost first thing in the morning! 0 Mutumparana 01-NOV-2009 22:45:15 The first day I planned to stop in a small town just 60 miles from Porto Velho but all the hotels were booked! I pedaled another 42 miles to a town called Mutum-Parana´ where I was able to get a hot meal, a cold shower, and a place to sleep. My room was as much chicken coup as it was a hotel room but I actually slept like a rock. 0 Extrema 02-NOV-2009 18:17:46 Once again I crossed the Rio Madeira and was within 50 meters of Bolivia. The hills and headwind kept my pace slow all that day but I kept thinking of Alexandro as I rode. After some more storms and another 100+ mile day I reached the town of Extrema. 0 Rio Branco, Brazil 03-NOV-2009 23:13:36 I’m now in Rio Branco planning my route through Peru. The road from the Brazilian border, through Porto Maldonado, and up the Andes to Cuzco is going to be tough to say the least. There are a lot of dirt stretches that might pose quite a problem with the frequent rains. I also have to climb 14,000+ feet of elevation… no big deal. 0 Capixaba, Brazil 08-NOV-2009 11:22:32 After a quick sleep in Capixaba (the town was completely engrossed in their Saturday night local soccer game and everything was closed) I was on the road at 5:30 am and filled my water bottles at the town´s gas station. Something I have seen a few times in Brazil that leaves me a little wary are the late night booze fests that occur at the 24 hour gas stations, or postos. That morning I rode past the pumps and to the water fountain next to the office. 0 Brasileia 08-NOV-2009 23:11:10 Brasileia is on the border of Brazil and Bolivia with a small river separating the two countries. When I came into town I took a quick picture on the other side of the border but turned around before the armed guards asked me any questions. Later, after some dinner I wanted to go back. 0 Inapari 09-NOV-2009 19:41:18 One block over the border into Peru I get called over to a table at a bar. I spent the next 7 hours with these guys in the town of Iñarapi. On the left is Marco, then Bullet Face (he told me he was shot in the face recently), then Stallone (Antonio), a bag of coca leaves, and finally yours truly, for the day known as Michael Douglas. 0 Mavila 10-NOV-2009 21:33:27 0 Puerto Maldonado 11-NOV-2009 12:22:17 The next two days I cycled from the border down to Puerto Maldonado. This stretch has recently been paved as part of the Trans-Oceanic roadway that now connects the ports of southern Brazil to Peru and the west coast. I saw almost no trucks pass through this way however. 0 santa rosa 13-NOV-2009 16:18:12 I spent the night in a dirty town called Santa Rosa at the beginning of the foothills of the Andes. Literally the first turn out of town marked the change from the last two months. I brushed the dead bead bugs from my mattress and waited until after dark when the power came on for a few hours. As I sat in the sun I started a conversation with a road worker waiting for a ride out of town. I taught him to count to ten in English and he taught me to count to five in Quechua. 0 Quince Mil, Peru 14-NOV-2009 15:17:51 I spent the night in Quinze Mil at an elevation of only 2300ft. This was still jungle climate and I had a difficult time finding any warmer clothing. I bought some long socks, half gloves, a ski mask, and a thin nylon parka. These clothes were by no means appropriate to camp at high elevation (nor is my Colombian made cotton stuffed sleeping bag) but I needed something to start with. 0 Marcapata 15-NOV-2009 18:23:22 I ascended that day from the strictly jungle climate and vegetation of Quinze Mil to over 10,000ft and short highland scrub. The first photo of this post shows the road ascending to Marcapata. I´d watch a truck pass me and 20 minutes later it was still close in distance, just straight above me. I rode around the main plaza of Marcapata filled with Andean men and woman and was stopped by a group of men. “You want a soda? How about a beer?” Yep. 0 Tinqui 16-NOV-2009 17:22:25 I put on all my clothes for the quick decent out of the snow and ice and with teeth chattering I didn´t have to touch the pedals for almost 20 miles to the town of Tinqui. By the time I went to bed (at about 5pm) I had a mild fever of 99 degrees that stuck with me for the next 3 days. I like high altitude adventures so my spirit was positive during this jaunt but this was physically the most difficult day of the journey so far. 0 Cusco, Peru 17-NOV-2009 21:43:47 This city is crawling with sight seers from all over the world and rightly so. Cuzco is a very beautiful city with an incredible history dating back to the Incas. The city is a World Heritage Site and most of the visitors are here either coming or going to Machu Picchu as well. 0 Curuhuassi 22-NOV-2009 02:13:44 When I nearly walked into Curahuasi I stopped at the first roadside stand for a coke. There were two men there, a boy, and the woman who ran the counter. I chatted it up with the men when they asked if there were roosters in the US. Then they asked if we have cock fights. Nope, it´s illegal anyway, I told them. Well it was my lucky day for in just 45 minutes Curahuasi was hosting a cock fighting extravaganza with competitors from all over this part of Peru. They told me to head over to the stadium to see the show. 0 Abancay, Peru 22-NOV-2009 22:55:35 As I fell into Abancay I noticed quite a few hazards in the road. The further I got the less they seemed to be from natural causes. Eventually I was certain I was headed into some sort of trouble in this city. The streets were filled with broken glass, smoldering tires, trashed cars, and lots of broken glass. Great, I am wet and exhausted and now I am in a war zone… I don´t want to be repairing flat tires from all this glass damnit (this would prove to be quite a problem later on). Every window in the city courthouse was completely smashed and laying on the sidewalk. Military police, federal police, and city police were lining the streets in full riot gear with shields and machine guns. 0 Chalhuanca 24-NOV-2009 11:33:19 After 10 hours I managed to reach Chalhaunca 75 miles upriver on two patched tires at a mushy 35 psi a piece. As I came into this small town the streets were again nearly paved with glass. I got off and gingerly walked the bike through the mess as people hurled glass bottles into the road behind me. 0 Marcapampa 24-NOV-2009 20:20:51 The wind brought rain (this wasn´t arid Altiplano) and I was shivering with all my clothes layered on. I went over a pass at 4300 meters before descending into a valley where I planned to camp with my new tent. However, the small valley was the resting spot of a small town and its Alpaca grazing land. The town did have one restaurant with a bed available for rent… it was the dog´s bed and I have never slept in a dirtier room in my life. 0 Puquio, Peru 25-NOV-2009 21:38:20 I made it to Puquio, in another valley off the Altiplano, and passed some interesting sights. I have seen caves in the cliff sides ever since arriving in the Andes but these ones looked like they were being put to use. It looked very Hobbit like and a good place to have a campfire and a few beers with some friends. Most likely livestock used this as shelter during bad weather. 0 Nazca, Peru 27-NOV-2009 09:19:38 From the town of Puquio it was just under 100 miles to Nazca, home of the famous Nazca lines dating as far back as 200 BCE carved into the desert floor depicting animals, shapes, and lines. There were some large climbs in between but ultimately I would be losing nearly 13,000ft along the way. 0 Lake Huacachina 29-NOV-2009 21:54:55 0 Paracas State Park 02-DEC-2009 13:46:15 0 Chincha Alta, Peru 02-DEC-2009 19:43:53 0 Mala, Peru 04-DEC-2009 10:33:18 0 LIMA! 04-DEC-2009 15:02:45 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0