Trans-Amazon Expedition

Lima, Peru @ Lima, Peru

2004-01-12T23:02:48.000Z

Western Springs @ Lima, Peru

2007-03-24T23:48:00.000Z

Eric and Patrick arrive in Lima! @ Lima, Peru

2007-03-29T15:55:00.000Z

We´ve arrived in Lima! It´s a hustling, bustling city with lots of traffic, new sights, and helpful people. The weather has been great: warm and sunny. We´ve seen green parakeets and beautiful bright red birds throughout the city. We are certainly in the tropics now.

Patrick and I have been shopping for bikes that will take us 500 miles over the Andes. After going to as many stores as we could find, we finally found 4 brand new bikes that look great. They´re being custom-made for our expedition and should be ready this afternoon.

Happy Trails,

Frosty

Lima, Peru @ Lima, Peru

2007-03-30T00:30:00.000Z

Lima, Peru @ Lima, Peru

2007-03-30T00:30:00.000Z

Lima, Peru @ Lima, Peru

2007-04-02T11:21:00.000Z

We're off! @ Lima, Peru

2007-04-02T11:24:00.000Z

After getting our canoes and bikes packaged up, we're getting on a bus tonight at 8:30 PM. The bus will take us 13 hours, and 400 miles up Peru's coastline to the city of Chiclayo. From there we'll begin our biking journey. We are so excited!

Daily Data

Location: Lima, Peru
Miles Traveled: 3
Method of Travel: Foot
Temperature: 77 F

Muelle Pimentel, Peru @ Muelle Pimentel, Peru

2007-04-02T16:23:00.000Z

A Dip in the Pacific @ Chiclayo, Peru

2007-04-03T00:22:00.000Z

With travel by motorized vehicles now behind us, we rode our new bikes for the first time today. We pedaled ten miles from Chiclayo to the Pacific Ocean so we could dip our tires in its water. At first the beach appeared empty, but we noticed a group of people standing down the shore. We found out that there was quite a lot of activity going on, as they provided supplies to a small motorboat by wading through waist-high surf with their arms full of supplies. After a few hours at the beach, we rode back to Chiclayo. Dave took time this afternoon to shave off his beard. Hundreds of students helped to make the decision whether or not he should shave it off before the journey—and the vast majority voted for him to shave. We are looking forward to heading toward the mountains tomorrow.

Daily Data

Miles pedaled: 20
Number of flat tires: 1
High Temperature: 85 F
Number of razors needed to shave Dave’s beard: 3

Smooth Sailing @ Jayanca, Peru

2007-04-04T02:29:00.000Z

We had a great day of biking! We began the day on the Pan-American Highway, which runs all the way through South America, from north to south. The road was flat and paved. There was also a wide shoulder that we could pedal on. We encountered many people walking and biking from town to town too. We spent several hours wandering around the ruins of pyramids built by the Lambayeque people 900 years ago, near the present-day town of Tucume. We ended our day in the town of Jayanca.

Daily Data

Distance pedaled: 33 miles, 53 kilometers
Number of flat tires: 0
High Temperature: 88F

Almost to Olmos @ Olmos, Peru

2007-04-04T14:31:00.000Z

We tried to leave Jayanca early. The desert has been extremely hot for the past few days. But before 11:00 AM, the heat has been tolerable.

We also began to start climbing the Andes. The previous two days' rides were fairly flat. We were able to average about 13 miles per hour. By 10:00 AM, we were completely surrounded by walls of mountains and our progress slowed. Climbing on a bike is slow and tiring work.

But what goes up, must come down. All of our climbing paid off in the form of a great downhill slope for the last 9 miles of today's ride. We hit a top speed of 28 miles per hour while flying into Olmos, a small sleepy town tucked in the foothills of the Andes. The wall of mountains has come into focus, and we can finally see what we're in for. Tomorrow we really begin climbing!

Daily Data

Distance pedaled: 36 miles, 60 kilometers
Number of flat tires: 2
High Temperature: 93F
Ecosystems Seen: High desert

Leticia, Peru @ Leticia, Peru

2007-04-04T14:33:00.000Z

A Day of Constant Climbing @ Limón, Peru

2007-04-06T00:18:00.000Z

We left early this morning because we knew that we had a very challenging climb ahead of us. We set a good pace in the beginning, but as the road grew steeper and the sun rose higher in the sky we were forced to seek shade, and rest for our tired muscles. Luckily the scenery was stunning and our view changed with each curve in the road. The weather changed too. Around 12:30 the sun disappeared behind a blanket of clouds and a light drizzle began. It was such a relief to have the rain cooling us off!

At the end of the day we stopped in a small town 8 kilometers and 1,400 vertical feet below the pass. The mayor in the town agreed to watch our bikes over night for us, and we caught a bus back to Olmos. After cold showers we are ready for a good night’s rest, but we are looking forward to reaching the pass and the long down hill run to Pucara!

Daily Data:

Distance peddled: 26 miles
Vertical feet gained: 4,600 feet
High Temperature: 86 F
Liters of water consumed: 3.5 per person

Riding Down @ Bagua Grande, Peru

2007-04-08T23:18:00.000Z

From the town of Limon de Pucaya, we climbed for 8 more kilometers. It was a struggle in strong winds, but the view from up there was worth it! As we began our descent, we found ourselves in a desert environment again. We were all very glad to have a nice, long downhill ride. Unfortunately, after about 15 minutes of riding downhill, the brakes on our bikes were all used up. All of us noticed this problem before the situation became dangerous and we pulled over to work on them. A family of four stopped to help us. They were nice enough to give us a ride all the way down to Pucara.In Pucara we found a small shop that sold brake pads, so we purchased several sets for each bike, and took off the next day. Saturday we peddled through rolling hills that lined a river valley filled with rice patties,and small villages.

Daily Data:

Miles peddled: 71 miles in three days
Flat tires: 2
Burned up break pads: 16
Ecosystems peddled through: deserts, dry forests, wet tropical forests.

Rolling into the Cloud Forest @ Pedro Ruiz, Peru

2007-04-09T22:20:00.000Z

A gentle mist this morning eventually became a downpour that lasted for the entire day. We all agree that today’s ride went through some of the most spectacular scenery any of us has ever seen. Steep, lush green mountains formed a tight valley, which the Utcubamba River raged through. We knew we were in the cloud forest, because of the bromeliads, ferns, and larger trees that covered the mountain slopes. A cloud forest is a tropical rainforest at high altitude in mountainous regions. The amount of life compared to the desert we passed through only yesterday is amazing.

Daily Data

Miles Pedaled: 40
High Temperature: 76 F
Flat Tires: 1
Ecosystems Seen: Cloud Forest
Elevation Gained: 2,400 feet

Climbing through the Cloud Forest @ Florida, Peru

2007-04-10T20:13:00.000Z

From talking with locals and consulting our topographic maps, we knew that today’s route went up some more steep mountains. In fact, there was only a little downhill at the very end of our day, as we descended into the town of Lago Pomocoche. The town is named after an ancient lake (lago is Spanish for lake) that sits in the middle of four mountaintops. We’ve been told it’s full of fish, and the idea of a fish dinner tonight has all of our mouths watering. It’s nice to be higher in the mountains, because it’s significantly cooler. We’ve actually been sleeping with blankets for the past two nights!

Daily Data

Miles Pedaled: 25 miles
High Temperature: 74 F
Gain in Elevation: 3,225 feet
Flat Tires: 0
Candy Bars Eaten: Amy: 2, Dave: 0, Patrick: 1, Eric: 2

The Great Descent @ Lago Pomacochas, Peru

2007-04-12T13:38:00.000Z

Lago Pomacochas was chilly this morning. We left under a blanket of clouds and a light
drizzle. The road took us on downhill for most of the day. This really put our brakes to
the test. They worked better than during our last descent, but we still needed to make a
few stops to make adjustments. Every bend in the road revealed a new aspect of the
Cloud Forest. We passed by cliffs, waterfalls, banana plants. We saw many different
kinds of birds and insects. It was a great day to be in Peru!

Daily Data

Miles pedaled: 49
High temperature: 70 F
Low temperature: 55 F
Flat tires: 1
Brake pads burned up: 3

Into the Amazon Basin @ Rioja, Peru

2007-04-12T23:27:00.000Z

After yesterday’s wild descent through the cloud forest, today seemed pretty relaxed. The road was pretty flat, with slow rolling hills that carried us into the rainforest. Throughout the day, heavily forested mountains could be seen in the distance. Some mountains were behind us where we came from, and some are still up ahead. Most of the landscape near the road was used one way or another by the local people. This region seems very productive for farming. From our bikes we dodged a typical assortment of cattle, chicken, turkey, pig and tarps full of drying beans and potatoes.

Daily Data

Miles pedaled: 48
High temperature: 92 F
Low temperature: 74 F
Flat tires: 1
Average Speed: 15MPH

Relaxing in Moyabamba @ Tarapoto, Peru

2007-04-16T11:00:00.000Z

We had a restful weekend in Moyabamba. On Friday evening we soaked our tired muscles in the hot springs. The water is heated deep within the earth’s core. Where the earth’s crust is especially thin, the hot water escapes through cracks. People have known about the relaxing qualities of hot springs for thousands of years. While we were there, I wondered about the people who spent time soaking before me.
Our ride to Tarapoto on Sunday was awesome. We spotted many species of tropical birds: magpie tanager, toucanet (small toucan), howatzin, yellow-rumped cacique, and many species of small parrots.

Daily Data

Miles Pedaled: Fri. 42, Sun. 46
High Temperature (F): Fri. 92, Sat. 89, Sun. 89
Low Temperature (F): Fri. 77, Sat. 72, Sun. 73
Bananas Consumed Sunday: 18
Hours spent at hot springs: 3.5

A Day in Tarapoto @ Tarapoto, Peru

2007-04-17T12:36:00.000Z

When we arrived in Tarapoto, we found out that we needed to change our plans for the next few days. Part of the road between Tarapoto and Yurimaguas is under major construction. 44 miles of the road is being built and is closed during the day, but open at night. The construction workers are using dynamite to make the road, so it is only open when they are not working. Obviously it’s not safe to bike at night or during the day, when the road it closed. We will take a taxi through the construction zone and then bike when it is safe.
Although we are disappointed, we are trying to take advantage of our extra time in Tarapoto. With a population of 102,000, Tarapoto is the largest city that we will be in for a while. We are able to buy food and supplies here that we will not be able to get once be begin canoeing. We spent the day shopping for things like tuna fish, macaroni and cheese, oatmeal, spices, powdered milk, tooth paste, toilet paper, and dishwashing soap.

Daily Data

Miles pedaled: 0
High temperature: 85 F
Low temperature: 72 F
Pieces of cake consumed: 9

Trading Bikes for Canoes @ Yurimaguas, Peru

2007-04-18T04:26:00.000Z

We’ve completed our bicycle journey! A little over 500 miles in 15 days over some of the world’s steepest mountains is a great way to get in shape. We feel physically and mentally prepared for our canoe expedition that lies ahead.

This morning we woke up at 3:30 AM. The road from Tarapoto to Yurimaguas is under some pretty serious construction, and we needed to be through it by 7:00 AM. The van ride was probably the bumpiest and wildest ride we’ve ever been on. We were tossed about like popcorn as the van wound its way up a steep mountainside.

On the other side of the mountain, the landscape flattened out, letting us know we have arrived in the lowland Amazon basin. We rode the last 47 miles into Yurimaguas today, picked up our canoes, assembled them, and promptly took a long nap. Tomorrow we’ll take the canoes out for a test ride to make sure they float!

Daily Data

Miles Pedaled: 47
High Temperature: 94
Low Temperature: 81
Flat Tires: 0
Canoes Assembled: 3

Preparing to canoe the Huallaga River @ Yurimaguas, Peru

2007-04-19T04:35:00.000Z

Bags, gear, food, computers, and other equipment have taken over our little hotel on the banks of the Huallaga River. Tomorrow we depart for our canoe trip to Iquitos. Watching the river roll by has gotten me so excited that I’m not sure I’ll be able to sleep tonight.

When we leave Yurimaguas tomorrow morning, it will take us three days to get to the small town of Lagunas. Warren, the final member of our team, will meet us there. It’s going to be a challenge navigating the rivers, but we have been preparing for years.
Tomorrow we will load the canoes with all of our gear and food and paddle for about seven hours before finding a place to stay. We will rely on you and ourselves to help us stay on track and safe. We’re up for it. Are you?

Daily Data

Miles Traveled: 0
High Temp: 97 F
Low Temp: 83 F
Rubber Boots Bought: 8 (4 pair)
Pounds of Food Packed: 235

Our first day on the water @ Providencia, Peru

2007-04-20T05:31:00.000Z

We left Yurimaguas with cheers from the shore. “Buen viaje,” or “Have a great trip,” came from the mouths of our new friends, reporters for the local newspaper, and a small television crew.

Our first dips of the paddles were soft and a little hesitant. The swift current of the Huallaga River swept us up, and we drifted down river. We fell into a nice rhythm and were able to watch the shoreline. The number of bird species was astounding. We must have seen at least 35 different species, most of which I had never seen before. I can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings!

Daily Data

Miles Paddled: 31
High Temp: 94
Low Temp: 81
Number of bikes we’re canoeing with: 1

The Long Push to Lagunas @ Lagunas, Peru

2007-04-23T11:00:00.000Z

We paddled for three long days from Yurimaguas to arrive in Lagunas. The massive Rio Huallaga is always shifting its position and water level, so our flooded route was not easy to plan ahead.

After a nice night in the small village of Providencia we paddled all day and saw very few people. When we stopped to ask directions, we were offered a place to stay with a local family. It was very interesting to see how the people live first hand. The paddle to Lagunas required several map checks and lots of sunblock. After a few dead-ends we found the correct water path and paddled directly to the hotel. Thank goodness we are now clean, dry and out of the hot sun. Our guide Warren was very happy to see us; the entire expedition team is now complete. We took a rest day in Lagunas to explore life along the edge of the Pacaya Samiria Reserve. Lagunas is very tranquil and rustic.

Daily Data

Miles Traveled: 60
High Temperature: 96 F
Low Temperature: 83 F
Motorboats seen: 6
Soccer games watched: 3

Flooded Rainforest @ Pacaya Samiria Reserve, Peru

2007-04-24T05:37:00.000Z

Our first day in the Pacaya Samiria Reserve started out unusually. Around 8:00 AM, Warren showed up with two horse carts. We loaded the canoes and all of our gear, and set out for the six-mile hike to the mouth of the Samiria River where we started canoeing.

At this time of year, the entire forest is flooded. The water levels are extremely high this year. High water levels mean that we can canoe straight through the forest. Warren led the way, clearing paths through the forest with a machete as the rain poured down.

Blue and gold macaws called loudly throughout the day. We spotted toucans, and turkey-like birds called chachalacas. Our first day in the flooded forest was awesome!

Daily Data

Miles Traveled: 6 on foot, 20 in canoe
High Temp: 87
Low Temp: 79
Fish Eaten: Gamitana

Pacaya Samiria @ Pacaya Samiria Reserve, Peru

2007-04-25T06:16:00.000Z

Monkeys Galore! @ Payaca Samiria Reserve, Peru

2007-04-26T06:48:00.000Z

During today’s travel, we encountered five species of monkeys. We saw white capuchins, howlers, saddleback tamarins, common sakis, and squirrel monkeys. Watching monkeys in the wild is pretty difficult, because monkeys are always on the go. They seem to fly through the trees, using their arms, legs, and tails to grip, balance, and hang from branches.
We also saw a river otter, scarlet macaws, and had the chance to watch a sloth creep down a cecropia tree that hung over the water. The Pacaya Samiria Reserve is full of wildlife. It’s an honor to paddle through.

Daily Data

Miles Traveled: 26
High Temp: 86
Low Temp: 77
Types Mammals Seen: 8
Types of Birds Seen: 19

Spaghetti for Breakfast @ Pacaya Samiria Reserve, Peru

2007-04-27T08:04:00.000Z

It was a long, hot day of paddling on the Samiria. Dave woke up at 4:30 AM and started our breakfast of oatmeal, coffee, and a little leftover spaghetti from the night before. We were packed up and on the water by 6:00 AM, and paddled into the fog of a typical rainforest morning. The fog burned off quickly and the forest woke up. Today’s photos are mostly of birds in response to your suggestions. We’ll keep our lens focused on wildlife, and let you know what we see.

Tonight we are camped on our first dry land in 4 days. It felt good to get out and stretch our legs. Tonight maybe we should go on a night-hike and find nocturnal animals.

Daily Data

Miles Traveled: 31
High Temp: 98
Low Temp: 86
Number of Bananas Eaten: 27

Wild Pigs and Dolphins @ Hamburgo, Peru

2007-04-29T22:46:00.000Z

On Friday we paddled to ranger station Hamburgo. Our time spent on the water was shorter than most days. We only had a distance of about 12 miles to cover. Warren managed to make our day interesting, though. After about an hour of paddling we heard a wild pig somewhere in the flooded forest. We pulled over our canoes, put on our rubber boots, and hiked through knee-deep water to try and find this wild pig. We didn’t have much success with finding the pig, but we did get some photos of a Paca and quite a few insects. When we arrived at Hamburgo, we were excited to see many gray dolphins swimming in the river. Saturday was a rest day for us. We spent more time hiking on the forest floor in search of animals, insects, and plants.

Daily Data

Miles Traveled: 12 on Friday
High Temp: 97 on Friday, 82 on Saturday
Low Temp: 79 on Friday, 73 on Saturday
Type of Fish Eaten: Sabalo "Brycun cephalus"

An Abrupt Awakening @ Hamburgo, Peru

2007-05-01T10:49:00.000Z

As I was brushing my teeth this morning, I heard Warren calling my name. “Eric, come here. There’s a poisonous snake.”

I went over to where Warren was standing, and sure enough there was a small, brown viper. We identified it as a small Fer de Lance, one of the most venomous snakes in the flooded forest. It was a young snake, but even young snakes have all the venom they need for their entire lives.

Warren carefully picked the snake up using a stick. After we all had the chance to look at the snake, Warren flung the snake deep into the forest.

The Fer de Lance wasn’t a threat to us. We watch where we step very carefully. In fact, I was just thinking how we hadn’t seen many reptiles on this trip yet. However, seeing the snake was a reminder that we need to be safe all the time. We’ll continue to do so.

Daily Data

Miles Traveled: 28
High Temp: 87
Low Temp: 71
Oreo Cookies Consumed: 36
Miles saved by taking a short-cut through the forest: 12

Eat Your (Palm) Heart Out! @ Pacaya Samiria Reserve, Peru

2007-05-02T07:28:00.000Z

We slept in until 7:00 AM this morning, because we decided to take a day off from paddling. After our chats this morning, Warren led us into the forest in search of food. We were in search of the heart of palm, the soft, artichoke-like center of the palmera tree. Heart of palms are generally eaten in salads and can be bought in cans the US.

The palmera tree grows straight, tall, and fast. The first palmera we cut down was approximately 7 years old and already 60 feet tall. We harvested a second which was even larger. Using a machete, we felled the tall tree. Only the top three feet of the palm is edible. The rest of the wood can be used as building materials.

We ate the heart of palm cooked with lemons we harvested from a tree near the ranger station. We encourage you try some heart of palms. It’s only one of the foods that are available in your grocery store that comes from the rainforest. Can you think of any others?

Daily Data

Miles Traveled: 0
High Temp: 93
Low Temp: 75
Liters of Water Imbibed: 15

Eating from Mother Earth @ Pacaya Samiria Reserve, Peru

2007-05-03T06:02:00.000Z

We received our first rainfall in three days just as we arrived at the ranger station that is home for the night. We settled in, put on a pot of coffee, and fried up some yucca.

Less than a mile downriver of last night's ranger station, Warren told us that there was a small farm nearby. The farm mostly grew yucca and bananas and is maintained by some of the park rangers. We harvested two yucca plants, which will provide about four meals. When we asked if we should pay someone for the yucca, Warren looked at us and laughed. "Yucca comes from Mother Earth. How could you pay her?" In the end we cut two yucca stems from other plants growing in the garden, and re-planted them. These stems will grow into edible yucca in about 8 months. It seems that that's all the payment we needed to leave.

People we've met in the rainforest have been very willing to share their food with us. Most of the fish we've tried to buy from fishermen has instead been given to us. We always make sure that we share our food with folks we meet. In the end, we've decided that the rule of the rainforest is to share what you have, and you'll always be taken care of.

Daily Data

Miles Traveled: 22
High Temp: 91
Low Temp: 83
Inches of Rain: 4

Floating Frogs @ Pacaya Samiria Reserve, Peru

2007-05-04T06:47:00.000Z

We woke up at 4:30 AM this morning to hit the water before sunlight. The rangers told us it would be a 15 hour trip today. We had to get to the next ranger station, because there would be no dry land to camp on. Thankfully, it only took us 9 hours to get to the ranger station.

During the day we canoed through many floating plants, which provided habitat to some of the first tree frogs we’ve seen during our expedition. These curious amphibians are so fun to see in the wild. Like many amphibians, tree frogs are a sign of a healthy ecosystem. Amphibians, like frogs, turtles, and salamanders are affected by pollution because they breathe through their skin. When the air, land, or water is polluted, amphibians suffer.

The Pacaya Samiria Reserve is not polluted. We simply have not seen many amphibians, because the forest is flooded and they are spread our over great distances.

Daily Data

Miles Traveled: 42
High Temp: 86
Low Temp: 74
Weather: Cloudy, Light Rain
Frogs Found Floating: 2

A moment on the Maranon @ San Regis, Peru

2007-05-07T01:41:00.000Z

During this past weekend we paddled from a small river into a big river and back into a small river again. I mean that we reached the mouth of the Samiria River, where it enters the Maranon River. We had one day of canoeing on the Maranon, which is really big and has a pretty fast current. On Saturday, we stayed in the town of San Regis on the Maranon River. It was pretty crazy to be back in civilization again, after spending about two weeks in the Pacaya Samiria Reserve. After buying lots of bread, drinking Coca Colas, and wandering around town on Saturday night, we returned to another part of the Pacaya Samiria Reserve. On Sunday, we left the Maranon and paddled on the Yanayaqillo River to the Yanayacu River. We stopped paddling for the day in the town of Veinte de Enero. We’re looking forward to a day off tomorrow in Veinte de Enero. Everyone we have met seems really nice and happy that we are here.

Daily Data

Miles paddled: 33 miles on Friday, 40 miles on Saturday, 27 miles on Sunday

High temperature: 89 F on Friday, 93 F on Saturday, 95 F on Sunday

Low temperature: 78 F on Friday, 75 on Saturday, 79 on Sunday

Pieces of bread consumed: 0 on Friday, 14 on Saturday, 21 on Sunday

Population of Veinte de Enero: 120

Chicken for lunch anyone? @ Veinte de Enero, Peru

2007-05-08T06:46:00.000Z

We wanted to buy a chicken for lunch. Since none of us but Warren have ever bought, slaughtered, and cooked a live chicken, we thought it might be time to learn how. We’ve certainly eaten lots of chicken during our lives. Going through the entire process is an important connection to our food. Being aware of where your food comes from, and making choices based on how and where the food is grown, are some of the most important actions you can take for the environment.

It took nearly an hour to find a house willing to sell us a chicken. Just about every home has several chickens, but those families need them for their own use. Outside of town, we found a small home with a nice garden and a number of chickens and ducks. The family agreed to sell us a big hen for about $7. We had to chase the chicken for a couple of minutes before catching it. Dave killed the chicken and we took it back to our camp to cook it.

Warren showed us how to clean and cut the chicken. It was very interesting to see the process, and we had a great meal of cooked chicken with onions, garlic and rice. We have stock left over for tonight’s chicken soup dinner. We ate until we were stuffed and even had enough to share some with friends in town.

Daily Data

Miles Traveled: 0
High Temp: 87
Low Temp: 73
Servings Provided by One Chicken: 15
Hours to Prepare Chicken: 4 from start to finish

To Build a Raft @ Veinte de Enero, Peru

2007-05-09T07:53:00.000Z

Today was another great day of living with the riberneros, or people along the river, in Vente de Enero. We didn't have anywhere to go so we headed into the forest to collect wood and vines to construct a raft with our three canoes. Warren found a tree with a super tough inner bark that we used to lash the timbers together. To protect us from the blazing sun, we also built an experimental roof using arched vines, supports, and plastic tarps. When we were finished we had plenty of time to go swimming with the children and enjoy the delicious fruits of the forest.

Daily Data

Miles Traveled: 2 (walking)
High Temperature: 87
Low Temperature: 73
Hours to Build Raft: 5

Veinte de Enero, Peru @ Veinte de Enero, Peru

2007-05-09T07:55:00.000Z

Little Pueblo to Big City @ Iquitos, Peru

2007-05-10T03:06:00.000Z

The maiden voyage of our three-canoe raft was a success. We navigated the big waters of the Maranon River with style. The raft was great fun being all together; plus it was very stable and surprisingly fast. We were all a bit sad when we saw our destination and realized that we were finished paddling the great Amazon rivers for the year. In Nauta, our "take-out" or paddling destination, we were greeted by many curious people. Everyone was totally amazed when Dave, Patrick, and Eric, each lifted a canoe above their head and proceeded to walk across town to the bus station. The bus ride was an eye-opening look at what happens to the land when we cut roads through the rainforest. We arrived in the hustle and bustle of Iquitos around 6PM, just in time for a celebration dinner.

Daily Data

Miles Traveled: 18 in canoe, 78 in bus
High Temperature: 86
Low Temperature: 71
Number of Guaba pods eaten: 10
Inches of rain: 2 and still pouring

Iquitos, Peru @ Iquitos, Peru

2007-05-10T03:06:00.000Z

Iquitos, Peru @ Iquitos, Peru

2007-05-11T01:06:00.000Z

Wandering Around Belen @ Iquitos, Peru

2007-05-11T01:07:00.000Z

Exploring the Belen Market of Iquitos overloads the senses. Foreign sights, sounds, and smells range from sweet to disgusting in the course of only a few footsteps. The Bellen Market is an outdoor market that sells just about anything. There are blocks and blocks of people selling medicinal rainforest plants, rows of fruits and vegetables, and all sorts of clothing from socks to suits. The market was loud and crowded. The sounds of engines, people talking, music blaring, and televisions showing movies from the United States. Children singing along to the movie, Grease, made us laugh pretty hard.
Not everything for sale in the Belen Market made us smile, though. We saw many illegal animals being sold, both for meat and for pets. The endangered arawana, or paiche, fish was readily available. We saw illegal 30-foot long anaconda skins being sold for about $15. Baby wooly monkeys, parakeets, boa constrictors, caiman lizards, pigmy marmosets, turtles, and three-toed sloths were all for sale – most for under $10. It made us all pretty sad to see them in cages, especially since we just left the most pristine and well preserved rainforest in Peru. How would you feel?

Daily Data

Miles Traveled: 14 by motocaro
High Temp: 76
Low Temp: 62
Number of Palm Weevils (Giant Grubs) Eaten: 3, Patrick politely declined

Lima, Peru @ Lima, Peru

2007-05-14T02:53:00.000Z

Homeward Bound! @ Lima, Peru

2007-05-14T02:53:00.000Z

Our last day in Iquitos was a mix of highs and lows full of positive connections and inevitable disconnections. We finished a lot of necessary work such as chatting with the director of the Pacaya Samiria Reserve and organizing/packing our gear. Following the results to the final “Cast Your Vote,” we took a small motorboat or “pecky-pecky” to the Bora Indian village for a native dance. To be honest, we weren’t very impressed with the dancing, music, or behavior of the performers. It was very far from an authentic Bora ceremonial dance.
On Saturday we said goodbye to Warren and flew to Lima where Ruben greeted us at the airport. Ruben took us to his family’s home where we did some more gear sorting. In the afternoon we went out to eat at a popular cebiche (raw fish marinated in lime juice) restaurant. Then we gathered gifts for our volunteers back home and headed back to the airport to catch an overnight, or “red-eye” flight back to Chicago. We’re glad to be back in the USA; the land of the free and home of the brave. Hopefully we’ll see you soon!

Daily Data

Miles Traveled: about 5,500!!
High Temperature: 74 (very low for Lima)
Low Temperature: 63
Average Hours Slept per Person per Night: 4.5
Cups of Caffeinated Beverages Consumed over 24 hour period: 14

Stage 2 of the Trans-Amazon Expedition Begins! @ Iquitos, Peru

2008-03-30T16:00:00.000Z

Over the past month we have been really busy preparing for this expedition. Dave, Eric, and Amy have spent much of their time speaking at school assemblies, working on the Wilderness Classroom website, ordering necessary items, and packing. All of that hard work has paid off, because now we are on our way to Iquitos, Peru!

The route down to Iquitos is a pretty long one and we have spent a lot of time in the air and in airports. Check out the Daily Data below to see the details about this part of the journey.

Daily Data

Temperature in Chicago, IL: High: 47 F , Low: 40 F
Miles Traveled: 4,450
Number of planes boarded: 4
Hours spent in transit: 20
Cities visited: Chicago, IL, USA (start); Miami, FL, USA, Panama City, Panama, Lima, Peru; Iquitos, Peru

Sunrise in Chicago, IL: 6:37 AM CDT
Sunset in Chicago, IL: 7:15 PM CDT
Moonrise: 3:09 AM CDT
Moonset: 12:03 PM CDT

North America, Central America, and South America all in one Day @ Iquitos, Peru

2008-03-31T20:42:52.000Z

After 20 hours in the air and in airports, we made it to Lima! It feels great to be back in Peru, especially after all of the time spent flying and waiting around in airports. Around 6:00 PM on Sunday night, we loaded up two station wagons from the Wilderness Classroom office near Chicago and drove to O'Hare International Airport. Around 10:00 PM, we got on a plane headed for Miami, FL. We arrived in Miami around 1:30 AM, where we slept for a few hours before boarding another plane bound for Panama City, Panama. After arriving in Panama, we quickly realized we were in the tropics. The humid air hit us like a punch in the face. After spending the last few months in a cold, northern winter, the heat nearly sucked the breath out of us. After some more waiting, we saw our baggage being loaded onto the plane bound for Lima. The hours spent worrying about whether or not our gear would arrive safely seemed to disapear. We made it to Lima, along with all of our bags (we still can't believe they all made it!).
In about 3 hours we will board our last airplane which will take us to Iquitos, Peru - the launching pad for the second stage of the Trans-Amazon Expedition. We are dead tired after all of restless days spent preparing for this expedition. But, it looks like all of our hard work and prepartion is paying off. So, far the plans are coming together perfectly Tomorrow we'll wake up and be able to see the Amazon River!\par

Daily Data:
Low Temperature: 40 F (Chicago)
High Temperature: 82 F (Lima)
Planes Boarded: 4
Hours spent waiting to board planes: 16
Estimated hours of sleep in the last two days: 4 per person

Sunrise: 6:01 AM
Sunset: 6:06 PM
Moonrise: 2:02 AM
Moonset: 2:34 PM

A day of preparation In Iquitos @ Iquitos, Peru

2008-04-02T02:58:00.000Z

The expedition team had a busy day in Iquitos. Bright and early in the morning Warren arrived from Yurimaguas. We are thrilled to have him with us again. We gathered supplies and food in preparation for the trip. Our search for supplies took us to the Belen Market, which is always an adventure. Later in the day everyone went to the Pacay Samiria Park Headquarters, where our canoes were being stored. It was wonderful to see the canoes again! Tomorrow will be another day of preparation. Then on Thursday we plan to start paddling!

Daily Data:

Low Temperature: 73
High Temperature: 91
Number of taxi rides: 5
Number of canoes we found in storage: 3 (What a relief! That´s how many we left last year.)

Sunrise: 6:01 AM
Sunset: 6:06 PM
Moonrise: 2:52 AM
Moonset: 3:21 PM

Pacaya Samiria National Park Headquarters, Peru @ Iquitos, Peru

2008-04-03T01:06:00.000Z

Today we finished putting the spray covers on the canoes, purchased gasoline for the generator, and made final preparations. We left Iquitos this afternoon and we are camped at the Pacaya Samiria National Park headquarters. It feels good to be out of the city, away from the pollution and noise of the thousands of motorcycles, trucks, and buses that choke the streets of Iquitos. Soon we will be in areas where cars can't go and canoes are still the best way to get around.

There are many animals here that have been taken illegally from the
reserve. When rangers find animals that have been hurt, or taken as
babies from the reserve they bring the animals to the park headquarters.

The area around the headquarters is like a small zoo, with monkeys,
ocelots, pacas, and other animals. It is sad to see them living in small
cages. I wish they were still living in the wild where they could roam
free.

Daily Data:

Low Temperature: 78
High Temperature: 89
Miles Traveled: 15 miles by car, 2 miles on foot
Number of rivets riveted into the canoes: 162
Oscelots seen: 2

Sunrise: 6:01 AM
Sunset: 6:05 PM
Moonrise: 3:41 PM
Moonset: 4:06 AM

Back on the Amazon River! @ Nauta, Peru

2008-04-04T05:22:00.000Z

The day started early, when the macaws started squawking at 6:00 AM. They were a good wake up call, because we had plenty to do. Plus, we were all excited to get out of the city, and onto the river.

After a quick breakfast of oatmeal with mango, Dave, Warren, and Eric loaded the canoes onto the truck. All of the gear was loaded next, and we were off to Nauta. Nauta is where we ended the first stage of the Trans-Amazon Expedition, just over a year ago.

We loaded the canoes into the water in the pouring rain. Our paddles hit the water for the first time around 11:00 AM, and we stopped for the night at a small farm around 5:00.

We're already half-way back to Iquitos! The river's current is very fast, making paddling easy. I can't tell you how exciting it is to be back on the river. Everyone's muscles are a little sore, but it's so wonderful to be on such an adventure.

Daily Data
High Temp: 78
Low Temp: 66
Distance Traveled: 35 miles
Rate of Travel: 7 mph

Sunrise: 6:01 AM
Sunset: 6:05 PM
Moonrise: 4:30 AM
Moonset: 4:53 PM

Paddling through the streets of Belen @ Yanamono, Peru

2008-04-06T22:45:00.000Z

On Friday we paddled into Iquitos. This was actually one day sooner than we expected. Seeing Iquitos from the water was simply spectacular! On Saturday, Eric, Warren and Amy paddled into the Belen neighborhood. We had all been to the Belen market on foot before, but this was our first time paddling through the flooded streets of Belen. Keep in mind this was on a Saturday- so the neighborhood was full of people running errands in canoes, children swimming, people playing volleyball in the water, and people doing just about whatever fun weekend activity you can think of. On Sunday morning, we launched our canoes in between two water taxis and paddled out of Iquitos. Spending time in the big city was fun and exciting, but we were all ready to be back on the river. Tonight we are staying in a farmhouse right on the river in the town of Yanamono.

Daily Data:

Low Temperature: 78
High Temperature: 94
Miles Traveled: 36 miles

Sunrise: 6:00 AM
Sunset: 6:04 PM
Moonrise: 3:41 AM
Moonset: 4:06 PM

Water Sample Data (from Yanamono):

PH 7.6
Alkalinity Kh ppm 120
Hardness Gh ppm 200
Nitrite 0
No2 0
No3 0

Thick Fog @ San Salvador, Peru

2008-04-08T01:07:00.000Z

Thick fog wiped out almost all visibility as we woke to the croaking of hundreds of frogs this morning. A bat was also making a high pitched scream like an alarm clock.

We were packed up, with breakfast in our bellies by 7:30. We were sad to leave our little farm house that was home last night. The farm were staying on had many chickens, two pigs, two dogs, and one cow.

The swift current of the Amazon River took us downriver, but only after about an hour in the canoe, we came to the Yanomono Clinic, a hospital that we had read about. The Yanomono Clinic was started by Dr. Linnea Smith from Wisconsin 18 years ago. Dr. Smith wasn't there, but another doctor showed us around the clinic. It was an impressive place for being surrounded by rainforest. The clinic serves many small communities that otherwise would not have healthcare. If you'd like to learn more about Dr. Smith, please visit the web site: http://www.amazonmedical.org. They do great work, and they're worth supporting.

We paddled downriver until arriving in the small community of San Salvador. We're staying in the community school tonight. There are many children wondering what we're doing in their school. Their principal invited us in, because the students are on vacation. However many students are gathered around watching our every move. Tomorrow, we'll pack up just like this morning and get an early start before the heat of the day. I can't wait to see where we stop tomorrow!

Daily Data:

High Temp: 93
Low Temp: 80
Miles Traveled: 38
Hours Traveling: 8.5

Sunrise: 6:00 AM
Sunset: 6:03 PM
Moonrise: 8:09 AM
Moonset: 8:27 PM

Water Quality
pH Level: 7.6
Alkalinity (KH): 180 ppm
Hardness (GH): 75 ppm
Nitrate Level NO2: 0 ppm
Nitrate Level NO3: 0 ppm

Howler Monkeys and Floating Houses @ Santa Julia, Peru

2008-04-09T00:57:00.000Z

We woke up early again after a nice night's sleep in San Salvador's community school. The blue, open-aired building was the only shelter made of concrete in the town. The sound of howler monkeys, roosters, and barking dogs let us know that the sun was shining, and it was time to get paddling.

We ate oatmeal for breakfast, just like every morning. We also took time in the morning to cook our lunch, so that we could eat in our canoes. Every day for lunch we have rice and lentils with onion and garlic for flavor.

Today's paddling was nice. We heard howler monkeys and macaws, which is a good sign of the forest's health. We also saw four river dolphins, two pink and two gray.

The river's current picked up again, and we traveled quickly. Tonight we are staying in our own private house right next to the river. The house is typical of the Amazon, with a palm roof, open windows, and is built on stilts. The owner is away for the month, but his brother said it was fine for us to stay. Like all of the other villages we've stayed at, the children are very curious about our equipment, canoes, and where we're going. They keep a respectful distance, but watch our every move, and always find whatever we're doing worth giggling about. The people of the river are wonderful.

Daily Data:

Miles Traveled: 37 miles
Time Traveling: 8 hours
Low Temperature: 78
High Temperature: 94

Water Quality:
pH Level: 7.4
Alkalinity (KH): 80 ppm
Total Hardness (GH): 75 ppm
Nitrate Level (NO3): 0 ppm
Nitrate Level (NO2): 0 ppm

Sunrise: 6:00 AM
Sunset: 6:03 PM
Moonrise: 9:12 AM
Moonset: 9:30 PM

Photo captions:

1. Swimming is always a good way to cool off. If you wear your clothes while you do it, you stay cooler longer once you're out of the water.

2. This tree is a Cacique metropolis! Caciques are a common bird in the Amazon Rainforest and they build some of the most interesting nests that dangle from the trees.

3. The flooded streets of Pebas were bustling with boats.

4. We spent last night at the school in San Salvador. Fortunately we were able to slide our canoes right up the riverbank to the front of the school.

5. Warren and Eric stopped to ask directions to Pebas. This man and his son paddle two hours from Pebas to their farm every day. Today they were returning with bananas to sell.

6. Most of the houses lining the riverbanks in Pebas were floating.

7. Dave took students' sun protection advice seriously. . . he's coated in zinc oxide/sunscreen, he's wearing a wide-brimmed hat, and he decided to cover his blistering hands with his socks!

Macaws! @ Beruit, Peru

2008-04-10T01:16:00.000Z

Five hours today under cloudy skies felt like a dream come true. The sun was hidden for most of the day, making travel easy and cool.

For a few days now, we've been hearing macaws, but today we saw our first pair flying over the Amazon River. Not too long afterward, we saw three more pairs. Seeing macaws is a sign of a healthy ecosystem. It made us really happy to see them, because we were beginning to be worried that we might not.

Macaws use the emergent layer for shelter. Unlike most animals the intense sun doesn't seem to bother them. They have huge ranges and depend on tall trees being there for shelter.

The communities we're passing lately seem much smaller and spaced further apart. There also seems to be more ranching. Cows and water buffalo have become very common along the side of the river. Much of the area surrounding houses has been turned into pasture for grazing. Even though the farms are small, they have a significant impact on the river. What could be some of the outcomes of having cows graze so close to the river?

Daily Data:

High Temp: 94
Low Temp: 79
Kilometers Traveled: 80
Time Paddling: 8 hours

Water Quality:
pH: 7.2
Alkalinity (KH): 80 ppm
Hardness (GH): 75 ppm
Nitrate (NO2): 0
Nitrite (NO3): 0

Sunrise: 6:00 AM
Sunset: 6:03 PM
Moonrise: 10:17 AM
Moonset: 10:34 PM

Captions:

1. Today we saw several large areas that had been deforested. There were many cows grazing where the rainforest used to be.

2. Bananas are a food staple in the Amazon. If you lived here you would probably eat Bananas every day.

3. Everything is transported by boat along the Amazon, even cows.

4. Warren spotted this Iguana today. He was very excited, because they do not have this species of Iguana where he lives about 400 miles upriver.

5. These children have never seen a computer before, so they were very intrigued by what Dave was doing.

Thunder Under a Palm Roof @ San Juan, Peru

2008-04-11T00:14:00.000Z

It felt great to fall asleep last night to the sound of thunder. The rain came fast and furiously, but only lasted for three hours. The palm roof we were sleeping under kept the rain out. But when the wind picked up, the rain came in sideways and got us all a little wet.

This morning it rained hard for the first three hours of traveling. It was a nice change from the hot sun we have experienced for the past three days.

Even though it wasn't as hot today, we still took your advice and stopped for a nice break during the hottest part of the day around 1:00 PM. We stopped in San Pablo to purchase some rice, onions, and garlic. We also each got a cold Coke as a treat.

We saw a pair of blue and gold macaws again today. Their telltale squawking make them easy to spot. They also always fly in pairs, and their long tailfeathers look unlike any other bird in the sky.
We're getting closer to the Brazilian border. In fact the community we're staying in tonight has people from Brazil, Colombia, and Peru living here. By the time you come to school on Monday, we should be in Brazil!

Daily Data:
Kilometers Traveled: 65
Time Spent Paddling: 8

Water Quality:
pH: 7.3
Alkalinity (KH): 90 ppm
Hardness (GH): 200 ppm
Nitrite (NO2): 0 ppm
Nitrate (NO3): 0 ppm

Sunrise: 5:59 AM
Sunset: 6:02 PM
Moonrise: 11:20 AM
Moonset: 11:36 PM

Captions:

1. We took your advice and had a break in the middle of they day in San Pablo.

2. Carol and Amy work on last night's update amidst a sea of curious kids.

3. The kids got a real kick out of seeing their photos, which Dave just shot on his camera.

3. Lots of children were interested in our canoes when we pulled up to San Juan. Nobody had ever seen a canoe not made out of wood. They had to feel it to believe it.

4. All of these boards are scrap lumber was either too short, or had bends in the boards, making them un-fit to be sold. What uses can you come up with for them?

5. Eric and Warren paddle through today's wild rainfstorm.

The Team Meets an Anaconda...& Three Countries in One Day! @ Leticia, Colombia

2008-04-14T04:33:15.000Z

Have you ever paddled a canoe through three countries in one day?

Well, neither had we until we did today. Our canoes made it to Brazil, Peru, and Colombia on Sunday. We're currently staying in Leticia, Colombia. Unfortunately we found out that the launcha or river taxi, that is going to take us down-river isn't going to leave until Wednesday afternoon. That's okay, though because this interesting international border region is well worth exploring for a couple of days.

This weekend also brought some wonderful paddling. We got lost for a couple of hours when we decided to take a "shortcut" through the rainforest. Even though it didn't lead to where we wanted to go, it was a nice distraction from the wide main river channel of the Amazon.

And the snakes! We got to see a boa constrictor and an anaconda. We didn't see either in the wild. Both snakes were found by people and shown to us, but to hold them was thrilling.

Daily Data:

Miles Traveled 4-11 through 4-13: 93
High Temp: 97
Low Temp: 81
Sunrise: 5:59 AM
Sunset: 6:02 PM
Moonrise: 1:12 PM
Moonset: 12:34 AM

Water Quality:

pH: 7.6
Alkalinity (KH): 90 ppm
Hardness (GH): 200 ppm
Nitrite (NO2): 0
Nitrate (NO3): 0

Relaxing in Colombia @ Leticia, Colombia

2008-04-14T22:45:00.000Z

It was nice to have a relaxing day. We got to sleep in past our normal wake-up call of 5:30. However, we were all up by 7:00, because our bodies have become accustomed to the rhythm of the expedition.

We treated ourselves to a breakfast of fresh eggs and bread with jam from the local market. It was a welcome change from the past three weeks of oatmeal every day.

We then walked to the Colombian immigration office to get our passports stamped, which was quite a bit further than anyone had told us. We all remarked how nice it felt to use our legs.

Tuesday night we'll board the launcha that will take us to Fonte Boa. We have permission from the boat's captian to sleep on the launcha even though it won't depart until Wednesday afternoon. But we saw the boat, and it looked like a great one. Tomorrow you can see for yourselves.

Daily Data:

High Temp: 87
Low Temp: 77
Sunrise: 5:59 AM
Sunset: 6:01 PM
Moonrise: 2:00 PM
Moonset: 1:27 AM

Water Quality:

pH: 7.5
Alkalinity (KH): 80 ppm
Hardness (GH): 200 ppm
Nitrite (NO2): 0 ppm
Nitrate (NO3): 0 ppm

A New Language and a Launcha @ Tabatinga, Brazil

2008-04-16T02:07:00.000Z

We hung our hammocks on the launcha named M. Monterio this afternoon after making the short paddle into Brazil. Even though the boat doesn't leave until Wednesday afternoon at 3:00, we came early to make sure there was room for all of us. We also secured places that would catch the breeze, which we were all very happy about.

Tabatinga, Brazil has a much different feel than Leticia, Colombia. Even though the cities are connected, each has its own distinct look and flavor. Tabatinga seems more industrial, and Leticia is more quaint and quiet.

Also being in Brazil means that when people speak, we don't understand what they're saying. Brazilians speak Portuguese, and just when Dave, Amy, and Eric's Spanish was getting respectable, we leave the Spanish-speaking countries. Oh well, we have a Portuguese dictionary, and it's not the first time we've all been in countries where we don't speak the language. It's an adventure, after all!

Daily Data:

Miles Traveled: 1.5
Time Spent Traveling: 30 minutes!
Sunrise: 5:59 AM
Sunset: 6:01 PM
Moonrise:2:44 PM
Moonset:2:16 AM

Water Quality:

pH: 7.3
Alkalinity (KH): 85 ppm
Hardness (GH): 150 ppm
Nitrite (NO2): 0 ppm
Nitrate (NO3): 0 ppm

Hammock Row @ Tabatinga, Brazil

2008-04-17T03:56:19.000Z

The launcha is starting to fill up with hammocks. Around 9:00 AM, Dave and Eric left to run some errands back in Leticia. By the time they got back to the boat, there were three times as many hammocks hanging as when they left only two hours before.

Dave and Eric had to change their Colombian money into Brazilian currency. Since we had visited three countries in three days, we had lots of money changing to do. The currency in Peru is the sol, and there are about 3 soles (sol-EHs) to the US dollar. Colombians use the peso, and there are 2,000 pesos to the US dollars. And the currency in Brazil is called the real (pronounced RE-i), and there are about 2 reals to the US dollar.

The boat is set to leave Wednesday afternoon, and it will arrive in Fonte Boa on Friday morning. The team will then paddle to Tefe, Brazil where we'll meet our good friend, Erik Hoekstra, who will take Warren's seat in the canoe.

Daily Data:

Miles Traveled: 0
Hammocks hanging on the launcha: 54
Sunrise: 5:59 AM
Sunset: 6:01 PM
Moonrise: 3:26 PM
Moonset: 3:01 AM

Water Quality:

pH: 7.5
Alkalinity (KH): 85 ppm
Hardness (GH): 150 ppm
Nitrite (NO2): 0 ppm
Nitrate (NO3): 0 ppm

Captions:

Hammocks: The first night on the launcha was peaceful. When everyone woke up, Eric served us coffee in bed!

Bus: Dave and Eric got a ride into Leticia.

Chicks: There were hundreds of these little chicks for sale in a store in downtown Leticia.

Groceries: This was our last chance to buy food in Colombia, where it is a little bit cheaper.

Hammock Row: When it rains, blue plastic tarps are pulled down along the railing, causing this nice blue lighting.

A Lazy Day on the Launcha @ near Benjamin Constant, Brazil

2008-04-18T05:56:39.000Z

Last evening, after departing from Tabatinga, the launcha made two stops. At the port of Benjamin Constant we waited for a couple of hours while people and goods were loaded onto the boat.

We were awakened around 1 AM for the second stop at a police check point. Officers boarded the boat and checked passports and luggage - imagine going through security at the airport except it takes a bit longer and you can relax in your hammock instead of waiting in line. The launcha didn't start moving again until 4 AM!

Today has been sort of a lazy day, spent reading, catching up on sleep, watching TV in Portuguese, and chatting with neighbors. Even though the launcha ride has been pretty relaxing, the whole team is antsy to get to Fonte Boa so we can start paddling again!

Daily Data:

Miles Traveled: 100
Average speed of the launcha: 28 km/hr
Hammocks hanging on the launcha: 193
Sunrise: 5:58 AM
Sunset: 6:00 PM
Moonrise: 4:06 PM
Moonset: 3:45 AM

Water Quality:

pH: 7.5
Alkalinity (KH): 85 ppm
Hardness (GH): 150 ppm
Nitrite (NO2): 0 ppm
Nitrate (NO3): 0 ppm

Captions:

Window: This child lives right by the dock in his town. He had a great time watching our launcha land.

Dock: At Benjamin Constant, many people and packages eagerly waited to board the launcha.

Hammocks: The first and second levels of the launcha are now crowded with hammocks.

Monteiro: Dave boarded the launcha in this flurry of activity just a few minutes before its departure.

Railing: Every time we stop, passengers flock to the railing to check out the port and greet folks on the dock.

Top Deck: Between towns, all we can see is river and rainforest.

Paddling in Brazil @ between Nova Horizonte and Tefe, Brazil

2008-04-20T21:41:51.000Z

This weekend was filled with lots of activity. The launcha arrived in Fonte Boa early on Friday morning. After unloading all of our gear and the canoes, we started paddling by 9 AM. Uara (pronounced wa-RAH) is where we spent the night. We were kind of nervous about asking people for a place to stay using the minimal Portuguese that we know. After three stops in Brazilian towns, Ruben is now a pro at finding empty houses. The communities have welcomed us with open arms. On Saturday we paddled to Nova Horizonte and Sunday we made it to a small community about 30 miles away from Tefe.

Since arriving in Brazil, we've noticed a few differences between life on the river in Peru and in Brazil. For starters, the houses are built a bit differently. Most of them have metal roofs instead of palm. Also, many buildings are more enclosed, with walls on all sides and smaller windows. There is also an interesting sort of riverboat that we've seen a few times now. It is bigger than a canoe, smaller than a launcha, and has an interesting rounded shape. Once we find out the name of these boats, we'll let you know. The banks of the river have also been looking different, with more bluffs containing nesting birds, Ringed Kingfishers. There are also more cleared plots of land with grazing cattle or water buffalo. Every day has brought rain, at least for an hour at a time. We've been enjoying this, because it means a break from the hot sun.

Daily Data:

Total Distance Traveled Friday, Saturday, Sunday: 120 miles
Low Temperature: 78
High Temperature: 92
Sunrise:5:58 AM
Sunset:6:00 PM
Moonrise: 6:09 PM
Moonset: 5:54 AM

Water Quality:

pH: 7.2
Alkalinity (KH): 120 ppm
Hardness (GH): 150 ppm
Nitrite (NO2): 0 ppm
Nitrate (NO3): 0 ppm

Captions:

1: Cows are a common sight. They're usually not fenced in at all, just roaming around communities.

2: From the launcha, we got a bird's eye view of a fish market.

3: These catfish (Dorado) migrate from streams in the Andes Mountains to the Atlantic Ocean and back, that's over 5,000 miles!

4: We paddled through intense rain each day of the weekend.

5: The kids in Nova Horizonte had a game that involved teasing the cows.

6: . . . and then running away once the cow got mad and started to charge.

Tiny Dots on the Water @ Tefe, Brazil

2008-04-22T03:04:49.000Z

The rooster's crow woke us up early this morning. Upon entering Brazil, we entered a new time zone. Brazil is on Eastern time, making everything an hour later than we were used to in Peru. Amy and Ruben have adjusted their watches to Brazilian time. However, Eric keeps his on Central time, just so the team doesn't miss appointments in the Chat Room. Being on Eastern time has its benefits, though. Because when the roosters crow in the morning, Eric thinks it's 5:00 AM, and the rest of the team thinks it's 6:00 AM!

However early we woke up, the scene in front of us was spectacular. Last night we stayed at a wonderful farm house. The community consisted of only two families who raised cows and chickens. There were three dogs and a pile of newborn kittens in the corner where we stayed. The house was situated on a small hill that overlooked a particularly beautiful stretch of river. We arrived in the late afternoon, and when the sun set, we watched the full moon rise through the clouds.

To access the house, we had to paddle off the main river into a small pond that the cows cooled themselves off in and actually swam. We had never seen cows swim before!

The people who lived in the community were shy but very nice. They were extremely hospitable, and wouldn't even accept any money the next morning. It just goes to show that the people who live along the Amazon are proud of where they live and are eager to show it to others.

We paddled a short distance into Tefe, which is the largest city we've been to since leaving Iquitos. Tefe is located on a huge backwater lake off the main river channel. The city is surprisingly relaxed, even though there are 70,000 people here. The port is full huge ships, which made us look like little dots on the water.

Daily Data:

Low Temp: 77
High Temp: 84
Miles Traveled: 22 miles
Time Traveled: 4 hours
Sunrise:5:58 AM
Sunset: 5:59 PM
Moonrise: 6:54 PM
Moonset: 6:40 AM

Water Quality:

pH: 7.3
Alkalinity (KH): 120 ppm
Hardness (GH): 150 ppm
Nitrate (NO3): 0 ppm
Nitrite (NO2): 0 ppm

Captions:

1: We stayed on a cattle farm last night in a large, open house that had litter of kittens living in it.

2: The house had a commanding view of the river, and it was hard to imagine what the area looked like before the forest was cut down.

3: We took a short cut on our way to Tefe. We met many small boats like this one in the narrow channel, remember in the Amazon people use boats instead of cars to get around!

4: We paddled past some huge trees today, including this massive Kapok Tree.

5: Tefe is the largest city we have encountered since leaving Iquitos, Peru. Tefe was founded by missionaries in the 17th century and now has a population of over 70,000 people.

6: Some shirts hung out to dry along the side of a house we paddled by in Tefe.

Bem-Vindos (Welcome), Hoeky! @ Tefe, Brazil

2008-04-23T00:17:45.000Z

Even though we had today listed on our calendar as a "rest day," it was very busy. Since we are getting ready to paddle through some of the most remote sections of rainforest thus far, we need to make sure we have enough food and supplies to get us through the next 6 days.

We woke up early, like we always do. It was hard sleeping through Tefe's morning traffic of motorcycles, cars, and trucks. We have become very used to waking up with the roosters in the villages where we've been staying, so the drone of blaring radios and motors was a rude awakening. I think we all agree that life deep in the rainforest is much nicer than in the cities.

Around 11:00 AM, Amy and Eric took motorcycle taxis out to pick up Erik Hoekstra from the airport. Erik, or Hoeky, will be paddling with the team for the next three weeks. We're excited to have him aboard.

While Eric and Amy were at the airport, Ruben, Carol, and Dave bought all the food. They also asked people for information about the side channel (the Parana Capea River) we'll be taking for the next week. We want to find out as much as we can before leaving Tefe, so we know what to expect on the Parana Capea. But, from the maps, we think we'll be able to see lots of wildlife we don't normally see on the main river channel. We are all very excited for tomorrow's paddling.

Daily Data:

Low Temp: 75
High Temp: 86
Miles Traveled: 0
Sunrise: 5:58 AM
Sunset: 5:59 PM
Moonrise: 7:41 PM
Moonset: 7:28 AM

Water Quality:

pH: 7.4
Alkalinity (KH): 120 ppm
Hardness (GH): 150 ppm
Nitrite (NO2): 0 ppm
Nitrate (NO3): 0 ppm

Captions:

1: We were greeted by this sign as we pulled our canoes into the port in Tefe.

2: This is the airplane that Erik Hoekstra (Hoeky) took from Manaus to Tefe today.

3: Hoeky brought some extra supplies (mainly peanut butter and Lara Bars) and food in this big box.

4: Moto-taxi drivers wear helmets and these special vests with handles, so passengers can hang on!

5: Instead of Walmarts, there are open-air markets with vendors who sell pretty much anything you could need.

6: Farinha is a common food in Brazil. It is made out of dried, ground yucca.

7: This is a typical fruit and vegetable stand in the open-air market.

8: We were kind of surprised to see this! This man is carrying a leg of beef through the market.

9: We happened to walk by this school just as many students were arriving.

10: The day ended with a special treat- ice cream for only 50 cents!

Cruise Ships and Canoes both land in Capebara @ Capebara, Brazil

2008-04-24T02:44:18.000Z

There were a few things we needed to do before leaving Tefe this morning. We had to purchase plane tickets for Ruben and Carol to get home to Peru after the adventure, find information about the Parana River, chat with students online, purify drinking water, and cook lunch. We didn't finish everything as quickly as we thought we might be able to. We didn't leave Tefe until about 1:00 PM. Chores while camping in the rainforest are usually much faster than they are in the cities.

In order to get from Tefe to the Parana Capea River, we had to paddle against the Amazon's strong current for about 5 miles. It was tough work, but we eventually crossed the Amazon and headed for the community of Capebara. However, as we rounded a bend in the river, to our surprise we saw a giant cruise ship. We knew that we might encounter cruise ships, but this seemed like an unlikely place for one to be. And it was anchored! As we got closer, we noticed inflatable boats, called Zodiacs, carrying tourists to the Capebara community. When we landed on shore, the locals, tourists, and the expedition team were all laughing at the coincidence of everyone showing up to the small village at the same time. There are about 100 German-speaking tourists on the cruise ship and 100 crew members. The cruise ship is bound for Iquitos, and will get there in about a week. Even though the tourists were there to see what life is like in a small village, many people seemed more interested in talking with us about our expedition.

The community welcomed us warmly and offered to let us stay in the community house for the night. The village of about 250-300 people is very festive and seems like a happy place to live. The people have been very helpful in telling us about what we might encounter on the Parana Capea River tomorrow!

Daily Data:

Miles Traveled: 12
Time Traveling: 3 hours
High Temp: 85
Low Temp: 71
Sunrise: 5:58 AM
Sunset: 5:59 PM
Moonrise: 8:30 PM
Moonset:8:17 AM

Water Quality:

pH:6.9
Alkalinity (KH): 40 ppm
Hardness (GH): 75 ppm
Nitrite (NO2): 0
Nitrate (NO3): 0

Captions:

1: Shortly after pulling onto the main river channel, we found this crab clinging to a piece of driftwood.

2: Traveling by canoe is quite a contrast to traveling by this cruise ship!

3: We paddled into the town of Capebara at the same moment tourists from the cruise ship arrived.

4: German tourists were taking photos of us and we were taking photos of them.

5: Children brought many hibiscus flowers to Carol, Amy, and many of the female German tourists.

6: There is a culla tree behind the community house where we are saying. Culla is a gourd and its shell makes a really good bowl.

7: When we stay in houses, this is what each of our beds looks like.

8: Amy showed many children from Capebara all of the photos we took today.

Wildlife on the Parana Capea @ Santa Marta, Brazil

2008-04-25T03:11:43.000Z

Taking the Parana Capea (Parana means river in Brazil) was a great idea. Today was the best day for wildlife sighting yet. We saw two troops of squirrel monkeys (the first of this expedition), chestnut billed aracaris (small toucans), grey river dolphins, outstanding pink river dolphins, scarlet and blue & gold macaws, great horned screamers, toucans, kingfishers, anis, yellow headed cara cara, yellow rumped casiques, masked tityras, and piranha to name a few. And to top it all off, Hoeky and Frosty had an anaconda swim right in front of their canoe. It surfaced twice before swimming into the weeds. They never got a really good look at it, but it was certainly a big snake!

We had to paddle upstream for the first 8 miles this morning. It felt like we paddling through molasses. After nearly 5 hours in the canoes we finally reached the spot where another small river joins the Capea. At the confluence of the two rivers, the current shifts and for the rest of the day we paddled with the current. We will be going with the flow for the rest of our nearly 200 mile trip down the Capea.

Tonight we are camped in the schoolhouse in Santa Marta, a small community on the Capea. There are probably 75 people living here, and they are very gracious and happy to have us.

Daily Data

Miles Traveled: 21
Time Traveled: 8 hours
High Temp: 93
Low Temp: 84
Sunrise: 5:58 AM
Sunset: 5:58 PM
Moonrise: 9:21 PM
Moonset: 9:08 AM

Water Quality:

pH: 6.8
Alkalinity (KH): 40 ppm
Hardness (GH): 75 ppm
Nitrite (NO2): 0
Nitrate (NO3): 0

Captions:

1: Fortunately for us, this pair of scarlet macaws perched very near the river. They mate for life and are typically found in pairs like this.

2: This cow incessantly mooed at us as we paddled past.

3: The masked tityra eat fruit. The sound they make is a frog-like croak.

4: A fisherman stopped to let us look at his catch. His bait was grasshoppers.

5: This piranha was among the fisherman's catch. It is a small one and Dave pulled back its lip to reveal the teeth.

Searching for Dry Land @ San Francisco de Mora, Brazil

2008-04-28T11:39:36.000Z

The last few days have been fantastic. Friday we learned all about making farina and received an enormous gift of produce from a small community on the river. The people there gave us avocados, lemons, papaya, and yucca. We've been eating all of it, supplementing the food supplies we bought in Tefe.

Friday night we stayed in a small quiet community and got lots of work done. Saturday was our biggest travel day since leaving Tefe. We saw many animals including scarlet macaws, howler monkeys, squirrel monkeys, grey river dolphins, pink river dolphins, and dozens of different types of birds. We traveled for miles without seeing any other people and at the end of the day, we decided to camp before the sun set.

Camping in the rainforest is a unique experience. First, you have to search for dry land - not an easy task. Then you have to hack your way into the woods with machetes and blaze a trail to find a camp site. Once you find a camp site you have to set up hammocks and/or tents to sleep in to shield you from the rain and bugs. We camped in a beautiful spot in the woods surrounded by plant and animal life. Ruben and Carol slept in hammocks, while Frosty, Dave, Amy, and Hoeky slept in a tent. At night the forest comes alive with as much sound as a busy city street in Chicago or New York. It can be hard to sleep with all the animal noises, but after a long day of traveling in the hot sun, you can sleep almost anywhere.

Today we had another full day on the river and passed only 2 communities. We're staying at the second community, San Francisco de Mora, where once again the people are extremely kind and generous.

Daily Data:

High Temperature: 92 degrees F
Low Temperature: 79 degrees F
Miles Traveled Fri - Sun: 72
Papayas consumed: 5

Sunrise: 5:57 AM
Sunset: 5:58 PM
Moonrise: 11:54 PM
Moonset: 11:39 AM

Water Quality

pH: 6.8
Alaklinity (KH): 40 ppm
Hardness (GH): 45 ppm
Nitrite (NO2): 0 ppm
Nitrate (NO3): 0 ppm

Captions:

1: Students suggested that we eat more locally produced food to decrease costs and the amount of trash we produce. Dave is eating a papaya.

2: We have received a lot of food in the past few days: papayas, yucca, lemons, bananas, and avocados.

3: We have seen and heard many howler monkeys, including this mother and baby.

4: Butterflies often fly over to check out our canoes and our clothing.

5: Camping in the rainforest can be be tough, but it was great to fall asleep to the sounds of the rainforest- no roosters, dogs, or generators.

Our first sloth! @ Sao Jose da Surpresa, Brazil

2008-04-29T00:29:14.000Z

We all woke up to an enormous crashing sound. The metal roof of San Francisco do Mora's community center had been torn off by a stormy wind. Amy laughingly called for Auntie Em from The Wizard of Oz. We were startled and got a little wet, but all was fine. Since arriving in Brazil, most of the houses and buildings have metal roofs, unlike the thatch palm roofs of the shelters in Peru. The metal roofs seems nicer, but when it rains, it is very loud, and many of them of have holes which drip during rainy nights. Can you think of advantages to having a metal roof?

After only an hour of paddling the Tambaqui River entered the Capea River, doubling the Capea's width. The Tambaqui is a black water river, and the brown water of the Capea ran side by side before merging. Can you figure out why black water rivers and muddy water rivers take a while to combine? Why do they run side by side? Dolphins played in the rivers' current, while the sound of grunting howler monkeys and screeching macaws made for a beautiful morning.

Today we finally spotted our first three-toed sloth! All of us were beginning to worry that we wouldn't see one during the entire expedition. On previous expeditions in the Amazon rainforest, we've seen many sloth - almost one each day. This sloth was high in a far away tree. Seeing it gave us hope that we'll encounter more sloth before we finish paddling the Capea River in a few days.

Daily Data:

Miles Traveled: 27
Time Traveled: 9 hours
High Temp: 86
Low Temp: 75
Sunrise: 5:57 AM
Sunset: 5:58 PM
Moonrise: 12:00 AM
Moonset: 12:26 PM

Water Quality:

pH: 6.3
Alkalinity (KH): 40 ppm
Hardness (GH): 75 ppm
Nitrite (NO2): 0
Nitrate (NO3): 0

Captions:

1: The morning dew combined with droplets of rain on the thick grasses lining the river.

2: We got going a little bit later this morning, waiting for the rain to clear up.

3: Our canoes became a popular gathering spot in San Francisco do Mora.

4: Pink dolphins are a common sight, but it's really hard to catch them with our cameras!

5: Everyone on the team was super excited when Frosty spotted this three-toed sloth.

6: Even on a cloudy day, the rainforest is full of color.

Piranha Fishing @ Sao Jose da Surpresa, Brazil

2008-04-30T01:21:29.000Z

Sometimes while on an adventure, you need to realize that some places are worth staying at, rather than just paddling through. Sao Jose da Surpresa is one of those places. The people are so genuinely nice here that we just weren't ready to leave. There was so much to see about life in their community that we decided to stay an extra day. This morning we were treated to an extensive tour of Sao Jose da Surpresa (Surpresa means surprise in Spanish and Portuguese). We were shown the gardens of food crops and medicinal herbs. We also learned about mauva, a tree whose bark can be harvested into a fiber that can be used to make rope, clothing, hats, and lots of other goods. Several blazing hot peppers were tasted, and I actually thought I saw steam coming from Dave's ears.

Many different types of fruits - guava, guanabana, limes, avocados, bananas, papayas, aguaje, achiote are grown throughout the community. Everyone takes tremendous pride in their garden, and everyone wanted us to taste their foods.

It was about 10:30 when our new friends, Luzivan (LU-zee-van) and Valzenir (val-ZEN-air), asked us if we wanted to go fishing with them in a nearby lake. How could we pass up the opportunity to go fishing for piranha? Luzivan and Valzenir had us hop in their long canoe and fired up the pecky pecky motor, the common type of boat motor in the Amazon. It took about 30 minutes to get to the lake, and when we did, we headed straight toward the forest. Piranha are easiest to catch in the flooded forest.

Our fishing poles were simple sticks with some fishing line and a hook. At first we used little bits of chicken as bait. We caught our first red bellied piranha in less than 5 minutes! It was small, so we cut it up to provide more bait. The piranhas were nearly jumping in our boat. After 3 hours, we had caught over 25 piranha with only two poles! Tonight we are going to fry some of the piranha, and make the rest into a piranha stew. Mmmm mmmm good!

Daily Data

Miles Traveled: 9
Hours Traveled: 2
High Temp: 88
Low Temp: 76
Sunrise: 5:57 AM
Sunset: 5:57 PM
Moonrise: 12:34 AM
Moonset: 1:12 PM

Water Quality:

pH: 6.3
Alkalinity (GH): 40 ppm
Hardness (GH): 75 ppm
Nitrite (NO2): 0 ppm
Nitrate (NO3): 0 ppm

Photo Captions:

1: Aracu is one of many new plants that we learned about today. The seeds are covered in a red paste, which is used as a dye and seasoning for food.

2: We all climbed into Luzivan's canoe and headed to a near by lake in search of Piranha.

3: This was the first of over 25 Piranaha that we caught, and Dave was so happy gave the Piranha a big kiss!

4: Valzenir introduced us to his pet Amazon Parrot. It is sad to see animals taken from the forest, but this bird seemed very well loved.

5: Hoeky splashes the water with his fishing pole in the flooded forest to attract the Piranhas to his bait. Why might this attract a Piranha?

6: Yellowfooted Tortoise are considered a delicacy in the Brazilian Amazon. We have seen many Tortoise shells, but this was the first live Tortoise we have seen.

The Sounds of the Amazon @ Fortaleza, Brazil

2008-04-30T23:24:18.000Z

It was hard to leave Sao Jose da Surpresa this morning. Even though we had only been there for 36 hours, we made lasting friends. We took a group photo of most of the community members, and bid farewell.

Early on we came across a troop of howler monkeys echoing monstrous grunting roars. Amy and Frosty think they sound like dinosaurs might have sounded. Hoeky thinks they sound like a big cat's roar. Ruben thinks they sound like King Kong. Either way, howler monkeys are one of the sounds that defines the rainforest.

A little ways down river we came across another peculiar, but common sound. Great Horned Screamers are a giant vulture-like bird that make the strangest sounds. It sounds sort of like a loud high-pitched donkey. Great Horned Screamers can grow to be three feet long, with wing-spans twice that long. They are usually found in swampy areas and marshes along the river banks.

Hoeky has also been seeing lots of Amazonian Racerunners, a kind of lizard that lives along the shoreline. They grow to be about 6 or 7 inches long, and are green, brown, and red in color. Most of the rest of the team haven't been able to see them, but Hoeky identified it using a guide book. We'll try to snap a photo, but they are quite elusive.

Daily Data:

Miles Traveled: 29
Hours Traveled: 7.5
High Temp: 91
Low Temp: 83
Sunrise: 5:57 AM
Sunset: 5:57 PM
Moonrise: 1:30 AM
Moonset: 1:56 PM

Water Quality:

pH: 6.3
Alkalinity (KH): 40 ppm
Hardness (GH): 70 ppm
Nitrite (NO2): 0
Nitrate (NO3): 0

Captions:

1: The entire community of Sao Jose da Surpresa came to say goodbye this morning. We had such a great time here; it was hard to leave.

2: This tarantula appeared on a wall of the school. People here actually like having them around because they eat cockroaches and other insects.

3: This man has spent three days working on this paddle.
maura: Sao Jose da Surpresa produces 3 tons of maura per year. This fiber comes from trees grown and harvested near the community.

4: After drying the maura for two days, it is folded into bales. After this, it is ready to transport to Coari to sell. There it will be made into many things: clothes, rope, and even patches for holes in wooden boats.

5: Here is our reptile sighting for the day, an iguana on the riverbank!

Gestures of Kindness @ Nova Esperanza, Brazil

2008-05-01T23:57:35.000Z

We stayed at the school in Fortaleza last night. This morning a shy little boy, about 6 years old, opened the door and handed us a bag full of yucca and potatoes. It was a gesture of pure kindness. He didn't want anything in return; he was just doing something nice for strangers.

Situations like this seem to happen every day throughout the expedition. People have been so kind and welcoming of us. They've let us stay in their homes, helped us find our way, and have been patient with us even though communication can sometimes be tough. People have given us food and gifts in a place that by United States' standards has very little to offer. What's more is that the people ask for little or nothing in return, even when we've offered money, food, or other objects. Think about the last time you did something really nice for someone. Try to remember the last time someone unexpectedly did something really nice for you.

Tonight we're staying in a Mirana native community. We originally stopped at the small community of 7 houses to ask how far it might be before there was somewhere we could stay at for the night. A boy, about 16 years old, looked at the horizon and saw rain coming. He told us we should stay here so that we don't have to paddle in the rain. He then swept out an empty house for us to stay in.

In this native community there are pigs, ducks, and chickens that the people use for food. They also grow yucca, potatoes, bananas, papaya, and lemons. They use nets to catch fish from the river and a nearby lake. Their food doesn't have to travel very far before becoming a meal. The people here are almost completely self-reliant for food. The only items that come from a store are clothing, cooking utensils, salt, oil, soap, machetes, fishing nets, and a boat motor with its gasoline. It's very different than most of our lifestyles. How does their impact on the environment differ from ours? How would your life be different without electricity or running water?

Daily Data:

Miles Traveled: 34
Hours Traveled: 8
High Temp: 90
Low Temp: 76
Sunrise: 5:57 AM
Sunset: 5:57 PM
Moonrise: 2:18 AM
Moonset: 2:41 PM

Water Quality:

pH: 6.2
Alkalinity (KH): 40 ppm
Hardness (GH): 75 ppm
Nitrite (NO2): 0
Nitrate (NO3): 0

Captions:

1: This Common Flat Tree Frog is arboreal and nocturnal.

2: These people are using a grinder to break up the yucca into small bits to make farina.

3: This brightly colored dragonfly was perched on some floating plants near where we stopped for the day.

4: Don't try this at home! These kids were climbing a tree near the riverbank and jumping into the water.

5: This wolf spider was sitting on a rafter right above where we hung our mosquito nets for the night. We are glad it is not a poisonous spider!

Vampire! (Bats) and Brazilian Martial Arts @ Sao Jose da Matto Grosso, Brazil

2008-05-05T00:24:37.000Z

Thursday night, as we were getting ready for bed, we had a couple of vampire bats fly into the house we stayed in. We were a little nervous, but were comforted by the fact that vampire bats rarely attack humans. The bats could be heard most of the night and left traces of their presence for us to find in the morning in the form of guano - yuck! Our friends at Nova Esperanza were very friendly, especially a 10 year old boy named Michael that brought us many tasty fruit treats while we chatted online with teachers and students in the U.S.

We left Nova Esperanza mid-day and paddled to a wonderful large comunidade named Vila Lira. This community had a beautiful new school built in 2006 by Petrobras, a Brazilian oil company, and the munipality of Coari. Students go to school all day and receive 2 meals per day from the school. The President of the community was proud of their school programs and emphasized that they put a large portion of their annual financial resources towards education. This community was also unique because it had a water treatment facility, something we hadn't seen yet in Brazil outside of cities.

Saturday morning we woke up early and paddled into a small city called Coari, a little bit bigger than Tefe. We found a nice hotel to stay in for one night where we were able to wash our clothes. We got supplies, used the internet at an internet cafe, ate some great meals at local restaurants and street side stands, and learned about the community. Saturday night we watched several people from Grupo Quilombo Capoeira. Capoeira is a martial art that is more like dancing than Karate or Tae Kwon Do. There is no physical contact. It was invented in Brazil by runaway slaves that formed their own communities in the late 1800's called Quilombos. Many of these communities are still around today and have a rich history.

Sunday morning we had breakfast at a street side stand run by 4 or 5 young women. A man sitting next to us recognized that we were English speakers and struck up a conversation with us. He is a Brazilian who lived in Miami for about a year and a half, but has returned to Coari and is now the Secretary of Agriculture for the municipality. He is going to send us some interesting information about maura, cacao and other agricultural products that come from this region. After lunch, we packed up the canoes and paddled a short distance to a small community called Sao Jose da Matto Grosso. As usual, the people here are very nice. The President brought us 4 large fish and another man brought us more farina for our meal.

We're all looking forward to getting back on the river for a full day tomorrow. The landscape appears to be changing as we approach Manaus, with more settlement by people and not as many animals. We hope to find more animals a bit off the beaten path.

Daily Data:

Miles Traveled: 10
Hours Traveled: 2.5
High Temp: 85
Low Temp: 75
Sunrise: 5:57 AM
Sunset: 5:57 PM
Moonrise: 3:57 AM
Moonset: 4:17 PM

Water Quality:

pH: 6.3
Alkalinity (KH): 40 ppm
Hardness (GH): 70 ppm
Nitrite (NO2): 0
Nitrate (NO3): 0

Captions:

1: There was a family of vampire bats living in the rafters of the house we stayed in in Nova Esperanza. Vampire bats feed on the blood of other mammals or birds.

2: In Nova Esperanza while we were chatting with students online, several children were very curious about what we were doing.

3: Gas is piped from Urucu to this spot near Coari. From here, it is loaded onto barges and transported to Manaus.

4: These jaraqui, paiche, tambaqui, and many other kinds of fish were for sale in this huge open-air market. Jaraqui are one of the most important food fishes in the Amazon. They spend 2-3 months each year feeding in flooded forest; they find their food on the surface of submerged trees.

5: The fish are frozen for transport and storage. This man was pulling frozen fish out of storage to put on display and sell.

6: We only spent about a day and a half in Coari. This bustling dock is quite the contrast to our quiet days on the Parana Capea.

7: On Saturday night, we spent a long time watching this Capoeira demonstration, mesmerized.

A Twenty-Mile Island @ Villanova, Brazil

2008-05-06T00:44:00.000Z

Sao Jose da Matto Grosso's population woke up early. Roosters, dogs, and radios startled us around 4:30 AM. We all fought for sleep, but eventually started our morning chores a little earlier than normal.

This morning's paddle brought us alongside an island that is 20 miles long. The island sits nearly in the middle of the river. We talked about how big the river seemed, and then laughed at the thought that on the other side of the island is an equal amount of water. Thinking about how much water flows through the Amazon Basin never gets old - it holds over 20% of the world's fresh water. Not a single bridge crosses the Amazon, and there are thousands of tributaries that run 100 miles or longer; some of them aren't even named.

Throughout the day we passed by small communities. The people of the communities usually stop their chores and wave. People use the resources of the Amazon for most of their daily needs. Clothes are washed by hand using water from the river. Then the sun dries the clothing. Fish are caught, and then cleaned on the river banks. The scales and organs of the fish are tossed back into the river to feed other fish. We also see many people along the river tending their farms. Machetes are used to cut grass, harvest yucca, and clear the ever-important soccer fields in each community. How do you interact with your backyard? What chores do you do to take care of it?

Daily Data:

Miles Traveled: 42
Hours Traveled: 9
High Temp: 88
Low Temp: 74
Sunrise: 5:57 AM
Sunset: 5:57 PM
Moonrise: 4:51 AM
Moonset: 5:10 PM

Water Quality:

pH:7.2
Alkalinity (GH): 100
Hardness (KH): 75
Nitrite (NO2): 0
Nitrate (NO3): 0

Captions:

1: The people of Sao Jose da Matto Grosso let us stay in their church on Sunday night. Hoeky stands by the canoes as a girl from the comunidade looks curiously inside at the Wilderness Classroom team.

2: Carol displays a copoacu fruit that has been cracked open by Ruben.

3: The inside of a copuacu fruit.

4: A pile of discarded cacao bean shells.

5: The fruit of the cacao, one ingredient used to make chocolate.

6: Men from the Villanova comunidade play dominoes in the evening before sundown.

7: fish prepared by Ruben given to the team by the president of the Sao Jose da Matto Grosso comunidade.

8: Amy looks at some beautiful purple flowers as Frosty, Hoeky, Carol and Ruben paddle in the distance on a very wide part of the Sole Moes.

The Sardine Fisherwoman @ downriver of Codajas, Brazil

2008-05-07T01:15:29.000Z

The river just keeps getting wider and faster. We paddled under the clouds for most of the morning. But when the sun came through the clouds, it was intense. We had gotten used to clouds and cooler temperatures during the last four days.

During lunch, we were all floating together, and Dave happened to look behind us. On the horizon was the cruise ship we had seen nearly two weeks ago! The cruise ship had made its way from Tefe to Iquitos and was now on its way back to the Atlantic. We paddled toward it, hoping to wave hello. We paddled hard toward the opposite riverbank. The cruise ship was going too fast for us to get get close enough to see anyone on the boat. We waved our paddles and watched it disappear downriver.

A little while after that we reached the small city of Codajas. We needed to buy some onions and garlic, and so we stopped for a little while. We pulled right up to the city's market, where people were slaughtering cows and selling fruit, farina, and other goods.

After only a few minutes we came across a woman who was checking her fishing nets. She had a boatload of sardines. She invited us to come walk through her farm. The farm was loaded with copoacu, coconuts, and rubber trees.

Tonight we couldn't find a place to stay for the night until after dark. There just weren't any communities to stop at. After the sun goes in the rainforest it gets dark very fast. All of us were starting to worry a little bit at the thought of building a camp in the dark or spending the night in the canoes. We're glad we kept going, because tonight we're staying on a house built on top of a floating raft. A group of very friendly fisherman named Evan (EE-van) were nice enough to let us sleep here for the night.

Daily Data:

Miles Traveled: 50
Hours Traveled: 10
High Temp: 92
Low Temp: 81
Sunrise:
Sunset:
Moonrise:
Moonset:

Water Quality:

pH: 6.6
Alkalinity (GH): 40 ppm
Hardness (KH): 50 ppm
Nitrite (NO2): 0
Nitrate (NO3): 0

Captions:

1: Remember the German cruise ship we encountered at the start of the Parana Capea? Well, it cruised past us today.

2: We stopped to talk to a woman who was gathering in her fishing net. This was the catch she had collected in her boat: sardines.

3: The fisherwoman's father was standing on shore to help gather her net. They invited us to check out their farm.

4: The fisherwoman gave us a tour of her farm. We found dozens of rubber trees with many scars. She told us the scars were from a long time ago when people used to collect the rubber.

5: We found this huge termite nest high in a tree. They build their nests in trees so that they are protected from the seasonal floods.

6: The sun set as we paddled today and we watched the sky turn orange and red.

Jaraqui Fishing @ Sao Jose, Brazil

2008-05-08T03:53:18.000Z

On the raft we woke up to the sound of motorboats and fishermen talking. They were getting ready to head to a lake, where they planned to catch many jaraqui. Dave asked the fishermen if we could join them, and they agreed. Unfortunately, as we were loading our canoes a downpour began. The fishermen decided to wait until the rain stopped, so we decided to wait around too. By 11:00 AM, it was still raining, so we decided that if we wanted to make it to the next community, we had better start paddling.

Even though we weren't on the water until 11:30, we still managed to travel 21 miles. As we neared the town of Anori we saw several fishing boats full of people. We paddled closer to investigate and realized that they were hauling in their fishing nets! Even though we missed fishing in the morning, we still got to witness fishermen in action. Their nets are big and round, with styrofoam floats attached all around the outside edge. As they pulled the net in, the fish became concentrated in a smaller and smaller space. Once most of the net was on the boat, the fishermen hauled all of the fish into the boat in one big bunch. With the fish still flopping around in the bottom of the boat, the men grabbed their paddles and headed toward shore to unload their catch. We were excited to see that most of their catch was jaraqui.

During this time of year, the jaraqui are migrating from the flooded forest back to the main river channel. The fishermen told us that now is the prime time to catch the jaraqui for that very reason.

After leaving the fishermen, we realized that we needed to cross the river in order to reach a community to stay in for the night. Crossing the river took longer than expected, because it was about two miles across! The crossing was worth it, because we made it to the town of Sao Jose.

Daily Data:

Miles Traveled: 21
Hours Traveled: 4
High Temp: 85
Low Temp: 78
Sunrise: 5:57 AM
Sunset: 5:56 PM
Moonrise: 8:00 AM
Moonset: 8:18 PM

Water Qualilty:

pH: 6.7
Alkalinity (GH): 80 ppm
Hardness (KH): 100 ppm
Nitrite (NO2): 0
Nitrate (NO3): 0

Captions:

1: These fishermen are getting their nets ready for a day of fishing. Under this deck is where they will store their catch.

2: As the fishermen pulled in their catch, the fish flopped around like crazy and their boat leaned.

3: A very young cacao pod. Once it turns yellow, it will be ready to harvest. Then the seeds will be sold and most likely turned into chocolate.

4: We paddled through this soccer field in order to reach Sao Jose. The water was about 2 feet deep.

5: While we waited for the rain to stop this morning, Dave pulled out his computer and the entire team studied Google Maps.

Amazonian Cotton Candy @ Bom Jesus, Brazil

2008-05-08T21:24:26.000Z

When we pulled up to Sao Jose last night, the people of the community were excited to introduce us a Peruvian woman who lived in the town. It was nice to speak Spanish again, and Ruben and Carol told her about what's been happening in Lima and the rest of Peru.

As we got ready dinner she brought us shimbillo fruits and a sweet cake made of farina. Shimbillo (shim-BEE-row) fruits are long seed pods. When the pod is broken open, the white flesh that surrounds the seeds is very sweet, almost like cotton candy.

We had a leisurely morning. Rather than hurrying to be on the water by 8:00 AM, we got to sleep in a bit, because we had a chat scheduled at 9:30. Now that our bodies are so used to being awakened early, though, it was hard to sleep in very late.

We paddled for only a few hours today, but we traveled quickly. The river's current carries us at a rate of nearly 4 mph, and when we paddle, we can reach a top speed of about 8 or 9 mph.

We crossed the width of the river today from the right side (south) to the left side (north). Crossing the river has become quite a challenge, because of the river's fast current and the width, sometimes over 2 miles.

Tonight we're staying on another great floating raft, called a balsa in Spanish and a flutante in Portuguese. The owners usually have a small shop where they sell chicken, eggs, and gasoline. The family was nice enough to close for the shop for the evening and let us have free range over the whole raft.

Daily Data:

Miles Traveled: 24
Hours Traveled: 5
High Temp: 85
Low Temp: 76
Sunrise: 5:57 AM
Sunset: 5:56 PM
Moonrise: 9:06 AM
Moonset: 10:25 PM

Water Quality:

pH: 6.2
Alkalinity (KH): 40 ppm
Hardness (GH): 50 ppm
Nitrite (NO2): 0
Nitrate (N)3): 0

Captions:

1: Two girls from the community were excited to pose for a picture after they had just bathed and changed into clean clothes. As you can see, sunsets on the Amazon can be spectacular.

2: Dave munches on the tasty farina cake.

3: While pulling over to talk to a fisherman about nearby communities, Dave and Amy's canoe hit this rotten tree, causing hundreds of termites to pour out.

4: On a ponga tree, Frosty barely noticed this spider out of the corner of his eye. It is incredibly well camouflaged!

5: Snowy egrets eat small fish and frogs. Their feet are bright yellow and when a snowy egret stands very still in shallow water, fish are attracted to their feet! That sounds like a pretty handy way to catch dinner.

Catfish for Dinner @ Sao Francisco, Brazil

2008-05-12T09:06:01.000Z

This weekend we traveled just over 100 miles. This means that we are very close to Manaus- so close that we plan to arrive in Manaus tomorrow!

Throughout the weekend we witnessed several fishermen hauling in their nets. Basically, two fishermen would work together, one pulling up the top edge of the net and the other pulling up the bottom edge. They have to work at the same rate, otherwise the net gets tangled. The fishermen we watched this weekend were catching big catfish, so their nets were set near the bottom of the river.

On Saturday night, we stayed in a small town downriver of Manacapuru, called Bela Vista. As we pulled up to one of the flutuantes in Bela Vista, a few people were cleaning their catch of catfish. Since we had witnessed so many fishermen catching catfish, we thought it was high time we try some of it. Dave bought a whole catfish and filleted it for our dinner. Carol fried the fish, along with the advice and help of several women in the house where we stayed. The whole team agreed - the catfish was delicious!

In fact, the family that owned the house we stayed in was very generous. They provided us with rice to go with the catfish as well as eggs and cheese for breakfast.

Sunday was a full day of paddling. We arrived in Sao Francisco just a few minutes before the sunset. We are looking forward to exploring the town tomorrow and then paddling into Manaus!

Daily Data:

Miles Traveled on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday: 105
High Temp: 95
Low Temp:82
Sunrise: 5:57 am
Sunset: 5:56 pm
Moonrise: 11:57 am
Moonset: 11:47 pm

Water Quality:

pH: 6.8
Alkalinity (GH): 80 ppm
Hardness (KH): 100 ppm
Nitrite (NO3): 0
Nitrate (NO2): 0

Captions:

1: A man working on a flutante in Bela Vista cleans fresh catfish. We bought a striped catfish from these people later that day for our dinner.

2: Two young men pulled in this large dorado catfish as we watched them haul in their net.

3: Frosty jumps from a high diving board we discovered on the Sole Moes.

4: Luis de Oliveira Sales poses with his family on their new flutante home.

5: Two young men work hard to pull their fishing net into their boat as they fish for catfish.

6: The Wilderness Classroom Team paddles by the home of Luis de Oliveira Sales.

The Biggest City in Amazonas @ Manaus, Brazil

2008-05-13T06:00:32.000Z

We made it to Manaus! This morning began with a downpour of rain. We took a shortcut to access the Rio Negro. Manaus is situated where the Amazon River and Rio Negro join together. The place where two rivers join together is called a confluence. At the confluence of the Rio Negro and the Amazon River, the river becomes a massive ocean-bound waterway, doubling its width.

Paddling under a heavy downpour, we could barely make out the lights and the buildings of Manaus. Giant tankers appeared through the thick fog. Luckily, as we paddled, the rain began to lighten and the fog lifted.

What we saw before our eyes was shocking. Tall skyscrapers jutted out over the horizon.

A few weeks ago we met a man named Mocaer who offered to store our canoes for us. The first trick was to find out where his port was. The next trick was to cross the river. The other side of the river was a complete blur, so we weren't sure what area was a port (and Manaus has many, many ports). Landing at the right one was going to be a combination of luck and hard work.

We asked several people who pointed out landmarks, and then we set off. Since Manaus is the largest city on the Amazon River, it only seems natural that there would be lots more boat traffic than anywhere else. But, all worries aside, we made it across the river and landed at the right spot, just like we planned. Mocaer met us, and we loaded the canoes onto his truck. The canoes were transported to his house, where they will stay for the next four months.

We're excited to be in Manaus, but being in a city is hardly like being on the river each day. The change is nice, but we all miss paddling (well, at least a little!). We're going to go out for a nice dinner tonight to celebrate our successful journey.

Daily Data:

Miles Traveled: 9
Hours Traveled: 3
High Temp: 90
Low Temp: 74
Sunrise: 5:57 am
Sunset: 5:56 pm
Moonrise: 12:43 pm
Moonset: 12:13 am

Water Quality:

pH: 6.3
Alkalinity (KH): 40 ppm
Hardness (GH): 80 ppm
Nitrite (NO2): 0
Nitrate (NO3): 0

Captions:

1: This beautiful dragonfly landed on our canoe and traveled with us for quite awhile. At first it sat right on Dave's finger, and then it moved up to the edge of our canoe. We love dragonflies because they eat mosquitos!

2: This ferry travels back and forth across the Rio Negro constantly along with at least 3 or 4 others. It brings people and vehicles to and from Manaus.

3: Frosty raises his paddle triumphantly while Hoeky gives the thumbs up as we arrive in Manaus! As you can see, there are several tall buildings in this city of 2 million people, by far the largest city in Amazonas.

4: At the marina when we arrived to meet our new friend Mo in Manaus, there were several people building ships. The boats were made out of aluminum from large sheets of metal welded together and painted. The people here were able to complete a boat from start to finish in about 2 weeks, with several boats under construction simultaneously.

5: This 3-meter-high statue of a three toed sloth with baby sloth marked the location of the marina where we completed this stage of the journey in Manaus.

6: Barges are used to transport a variety of goods along the Amazon. On this barge you can see cars, buses, propane tanks, and something underneath some blue tarps.

Market Day in Manaus and an Opera House @ Manaus, Brazil

2008-05-13T22:33:08.000Z

Last night we went out for a dinner of pizza, not an extremely adventurous meal, but we were all in the mood for some comfort food. After that we splurged on a serve yourself ice cream sundae bar. We had all been looking forward to sampling the ice cream, and it turned out to be worth the wait. They had about 30 flavors, many based on interesting fruits we've learned about from the Amazon.

Today was our first full day to explore Manaus. After a good night's sleep, we rose this morning and ventured out into the city to explore the main market downtown. The market is similar to others we've encountered in South America, but very large by comparison. There were vendors selling meat, fish, cheese, grains, herbs, produce, household goods, etc. You name it, we found it in Manaus. Amy, Eric and Hoeky all enjoyed fresh coconut milk which they drank directly from coconuts with straws! After that, we sampled rambutan fruit, a spiny red fruit with a jelly-like center that has a citrus flavor.

Later in the day, we took a tour of the Teatro Amazonas, the opera house here in Manaus. The building was constructed over 15 years between 1881 and 1896. Most of the materials came from Europe, except for the bulk of the wood. Most of the wood came from Brazilian forests, but was shipped to Europe to be milled into fine furniture, flooring, and decorative trim for the interior of the building. The performance space is breathtaking with 4 levels of seats that can hold up to 701 spectators. The ceiling is painted, like the Sistine Chapel, with a scene depicting the view standing underneath the Eiffel Tower looking up towards the sky above.

The ballroom is equally grand with an amazing parquet floor made of over 36,000 separate pieces of wood assembled without any nails. There's a perspective painting on the ceiling of this room with figures that change depending on where you're standing in the room. One woman gets thinner as you walk across the floor while her arm and the shadow of her arm change position. The eyes of the angel in the center of the room follow you everywhere you go like the Mona Lisa, giving you the feeling that you're being watched. We were lucky to witness part of a rehearsal for the next performance, which will take place on May 21st. Unfortunately there aren't any performances while we're here in Manaus.

Tomorrow we're planning to visit the rubber museum that many of the students following our adventure are interested in learning about. We were going to go today, but the museum was closed. We'll spend the bulk of the day there tomorrow and will surely have a full report.

Daily Data:

Miles Traveled: 0
Hours Traveled: 0
Total Kilograms of Ice Cream Consumed: 1.8
High Temp: 86
Low Temp: 77
Sunrise: 5:57 AM
Sunset: 5:56 PM
Moonrise: 10:09 AM
Moonset: 10:25 PM

Water Quality:

pH: 6.3
Alkalinity (KH): 40 ppm
Hardness (GH): 80 ppm
Nitrite (NO2): 0
Nitrate (NO3): 0

Captions:

1: In Manaus, the river is used for transportation just as much as roads. Here people are delivering all sorts of products to the market.

2: There was not only a fruit section of the market, there was one section devoted entirely to bananas!

3: We've seen catfish being caught on the river and today in the market we saw where they end up.

4: Drinking coconut milk straight out of the coconut was very refreshing.

5: Frosty was surprised to learn that rambutan grow in South America. He had first tried them when in Southeast Asia.

6: Hoeky and Amy enjoyed the flavor and consistency of their first rambutan.

7: Even though visiting the rubber museum is number one on our list, it was closed today. We were glad to have the extra time to visit the Teatro Amazonas.

The Rubber Museum @ Manaus, Brazil

2008-05-15T01:58:18.000Z

An early start was necessary to get to Museo do Seringal Vila Paraiso, the rubber museum before Hoeky had to go the airport to fly back to the U.S. We knew that it was going to take a while to get there, so we wanted to leave plenty of time to find our way. We caught a bus across the street from our hotel. After riding for about 10 minutes we realized that it wasn't the correct bus. So, we switched to another bus and rode that one to the end of the line. Then it was on to the third bus which took us to Porto Negro, a small port where we hired a boat. The boat ride lasted about 30 minutes and took us to the museum. When we finally arrived at the museum we had been traveling for nearly 2 hours. But, part of the fun of being in foreign countries is traveling around and learning your way.

The Museo do Seringal blew us away. Being there was like stepping back in time. The museum is a re-creation of a rubber plantation that operated from 1906 - 1912, during the peak and collapse of the Brazilian rubber industry. The reconstructed buildings were based on detailed descriptions and maps that were written and drawn by a Portugese author who lived on the plantation while it was operating.

Since we were the only group of tourists at the museum, we got to ask many questions and spend lots of time in each building. We learned how different the lives were for the seringueiros (poor rubber tappers) and the rubber barons (the rich owners).

We went through the fancy house that the baron's family lived in. Even though they were deep in the Amazon, life was very comfortable. They had luxurious meals served on fine china, pianos, and comfortable furniture imported from Europe.

Life for the seringueiros was not very comfortable. Their day began at 2:00 AM (that's the middle of the night, if you ask me), and didn't finish until well after dark. Each rubber tapper was responsible for hundreds of trees and needed to collect over 100 lbs of rubber every five days, or they would get fined by the company. The rubber tapper was also responsible for hunting or harvesting his own food. They lived in miserable conditions. The work was dangerous. Many of the rubber tappers died from disease, animal bites, or native attacks. Their homes were nothing more than small huts with very few possessions. We quickly realized that the wealth from the rubber trade was not spread evenly.

Tomorrow we leave Manaus to fly back to the U.S. We're anxious to go home to see friends and family, but sad to leave Brazil and Ruben and Carol, who will begin to travel to Peru on Friday. It has truly been an excellent adventure.

Daily Data:

Miles Traveled: 0
High Temp: 93
Low Temp: 83
Sunrise: 5:57 AM
Sunset: 5:56 PM
Moonrise: 2:06 PM
Moonset: 1:44 AM

Water Quality:

pH: 6.3
Alkalinity (KH): 50 ppm
Hardness (GH): 100 ppm
Nitrite (NO2): 0
Nitrate (NO3): 0

Captions:

1: Our trip to the Museo do Seringal Vila Paraiso was wonderful and very educational. We're glad the students decided that we should visit. All of the buildings were recreated, based on an actual rubber tapping operation.

2: The rubber barons lived extravagantly. Their dining rooms had European furniture and fine china.

3: At first, the rubber tappers used hatchets, but they cut too deep and trees died due to fungal infections. They developed special tools to scrape the bark and make a small cut into the tree. Small metal cups were used to collect a day's supply of rubber from each tree.

4: Seringueiros smoked their rubber balls to keep them from growing mold or rotting.

5: Each rubber ball had to weigh 40 - 60 lbs. Rubber tappers needed to collect 100 lbs every 5 days, or they would be fined.

6: Scales were used to make sure that the tapper collected enough rubber. The scales often cheated the tappers.

7: The company store sold basic goods to the seringueiros at very high prices. Tappers had enormous debts that many of them could never pay off.

8: Because seringueiros worked in the dark, they needed these fancy headlamps, filled with kerosene. I think I prefer the modern ones.

Traveling Home @ Manaus, Brazil

2008-05-16T06:42:05.000Z

We've made it back to the United States! As sad as it is to have the expedition come to an end, it's nice to be back home. We flew from Manaus to Panama City, Panama to Orlando, Florida. Later this morning we'll board our final flight to Chicago.

The last day in Manaus was filled with many errands. Ruben and Carol needed to go to the Brazilian immigration office to tell them they would be in the country for a few extra days. Dave, Amy, and Eric packed up all the gear that is going to stay in Brazil. We coordinated with our new friend, Moacar, and had him drive the gear to his house. We had a few hours left over to shop for souvenirs in Manaus for friends, family, and volunteers.

We then bid farewell to Ruben and Carol and jumped into a taxi bound for the Manaus airport. This part of the expedition proves to be some of the most challenging. Endless airport lines, numerous security checks, waiting for flights, flight delays, more waiting, and sleep deprivation make this some of the hardest traveling of the expedition. We all agree that canoeing is preferable to airline travel!

This expedition has been a dream come true for all of us. We hope that you've enjoyed following along as much as we've appreciated your valuable contributions. We'll be back in Manaus in early October, ready to paddle to the Atlantic Ocean. We hope you can follow along on the next stage of The Trans-Amazon Expedition!

Daily Data:
Miles Traveled: 2,854
Hours Traveled: 6
High Temp: 97
Low Temp: 85
Sunrise: 5:57 AM
Sunset: 5:56 PM
Moonrise: 2:46 PM
Moonset: 2:27 AM

Water Quality
pH: 6.4
Alkalinity (KH): 50 ppm
Hardness (GH): 100 ppm
Nitrite (NO2): 0
Nitrate (N03): 0

Captions:

Hoeky: Hoeky left one day before us. We all bid him farewell as he hopped on a bus to the Manaus airport.

Bored: Taking several flights meant a lot of sitting around and waiting.

Recycling: We hadn't seen very many recycling bins in Brazil. When we saw these at the Manaus airport, we figured they were photo-worthy.

Airplane: As we boarded our first plane, I looked out the window and saw several old, rusty planes that are no longer used. Seeing these just before take-off doesn't really inspire confidence.

Manaus: From the air, we got a sense of just how big the city of Manaus is. Seeing the Amazon and the Rio Negro was amazing too. That's a lot of water!

Orlando: The first U.S. city we reached was Orlando, the home of Disney World. We were excited to be greated by Mickey Mouse.

Manaus, Brazil @ Manaus, Brazil

2008-05-16T13:25:05.000Z

The Journey to Manaus - Everyone Arrives! @ Manaus, Brazil

2008-10-05T19:49:00.000Z

Our team met very late last night at the Manaus airport, coming from different places and with different stories. We are all happy to have arrived in Manaus, ready to begin paddling and learning.

Dave, Anne, Amy and Eric left Chicago, IL on Thursday for a 20 hour train ride to New York City. Then they took a 10 hour flight to Sao Paulo, Brazil and 4 hour flight to Manaus. Tony left his home in Sao Paulo, Brazil Tuesday morning on a 3 thousand kilometer drive to Belem, Brazil. He left his truck at the exact point that we plan to end our journey! Then he took a 2 hour flight to Manaus. Jay left Delaware on Wednesday, spent a long night at the Miami airport and flew to Manaus on Thursday.

Right now we are all together at our hostel, organizing our equipment for our long paddle down the Amazon River. We are really getting excited about this trip and we are anxious to dip our paddles in this amazing river and cross the largest rainforest in the world. It will be great to have you all along with us!

Stay tuned!

Tony

Manaus Market Smells @ Manaus, Brazil

2008-10-06T19:51:14.000Z

Today was a busy day. We spent the morning traveling by bus to the Federal Police Station. After a slightly tedious process, we were able to get our travel visas extended from 30 days to 60 days. This was important because we plan to be here for close to 50 days.

This afternoon we split into two groups. Amy, Eric and I went to the market. Our mission was to find rice, beans and lentils. It was awesome to see the market full of people and products, after seeing the place almost empty during election day.

One of the most obvious features of the market is its smell. Most of the market smells like fish - some parts of the market actually stink - but occasionally we would smell something really good. The good smells would come as we walked past fresh fruits and vegetables, and the odors reminded us that these foods came straight from farms. The whole city has similar scent patterns. Walking through the streets we sniff hungrily as we walk past street vendors frying bananas and other tasty things. Moments later we will wrinkle our noses, unsure what the new, unpleasant smell is.

While we were exploring the street market, Dave, Jay and Tony went to the supermarket. Both groups were successful and we now have all the supplies we need to start canoeing. We are so excited to pick up the canoes tomorrow and start paddling!

Até logo,
Anne

"Hurry Up and Wait" @ São Raimundo, Brazil

2008-10-07T19:07:57.000Z

"Hurry up and wait" seemed to be the motto for the day. Our alarm clock rang at 6:30 in the morning. We were completely packed up with breakfast in our bellies by 8:00 AM. We were all very excited to get our canoes, transport them to the river, and begin paddling. However, during expeditions, things don't always go as planned.

We loaded up a station wagon and a pick-up truck with our backpacks, food, and supplies. Our next stop was Moacer's house. Moacer is a friend of ours who was storing our canoes and some other supplies. We loaded our canoes onto the truck and drove to the river.

After unloading our gear, we decided to test our generator. That's where the trouble began. Our generator is used to power our computers, cameras, and satellite phone during the adventure. It's a vital part of our equipment, and it wasn't working properly. The engine on the generator appeared to be clogged. Luckily we are in a large city, where it can be fixed. However, it took most of the day to fix, making it impossible to paddle today. So, we had to stay put at the port and wait.

Staying at the port wasn't all that bad though. We watched endless boats come and go. We talked to several people who were interested in what we were doing. And we also got our first taste of what the river is going to look like during the low-water season. A huge sandy beach stretched along the bank of river. Only 4 months ago, the entire area was under water. It's fun to think about all of the beaches we might get to camp on as we follow the Amazon to the Atlantic Ocean. Our goal is to get on the river at first light tomorrow morning. We are sleeping on a houseboat for the night, dreaming about adventures to come.

Daily Data

High Temp: 88
Low Temp: 71
Distance Traveled: 0
Team Members Ready to Paddle: 6

Dolphins Welcome Us to the River @ Ilha Terra Nova, Brazil

2008-10-08T20:40:11.000Z

What a day! We got on the water bright and early. It was such a relief to finally be paddling after all the frustration yesterday.

Paddling in Manaus was quite the adventure. We canoed past all sorts of boats, from ocean-going vessels to floating gas stations. All the other boats made us look tiny. I thought we would have to worry about being safe around the really big boats, but they go in mostly straight lines and were easy to avoid.

As we left Manaus, things got even more exciting. A pod of about 15 pink dolphins started following us and stayed nearby almost all day long. It felt like they were welcoming us to the Amazon. They started surfacing and jumping at a distance. Suddenly Amy gasped and then she and Dave began to laugh. One dolphin had surfaced right by her paddle! A few minutes later the same thing happened to me. I gripped my paddle like my life depended on it and felt my heart skip a beat as a wave burst from under the water about three feet away from me.

We tried to get pictures of the dolphins, but the water is so dark that we had no warning of where or when they would surface. This made it almost impossible to photograph the animals. Luckily, Dave's camera did the trick and we got a few good shots. They blew bubbles under our boats during lunch.

We found a small village that is letting us camp in a big field where they have cows and horses grazing. We are settling in for the night, putting up our tents and cooking dinner. I hope we have many more days like today.

Ate Logo-
Anne

Daily Data:

High Temp: 86
Low Temp: 70
Distance Traveled: 30 miles
Pink Dolphins encountered: too many to count!

Dolphins, Bugs, and So Much More! @ Ilha do Jacaré, Brazil

2008-10-09T18:43:41.000Z

Last night I saw some insects and spiders: a big firefly, a spider that looks just like an ant, and several other beetles. I wore rubber boots to protect my feet and used a red light that many animals cannot see. However, I did not go far because I was alone and I saw many mysterious eyes shining back at me. Several plants closed their leaves for the night and had stinging ants protecting them.

This morning we had oatmeal and coffee. We made rice and beans for our lunch containers. Children arrived for school in small boats wearing uniforms of Brazilian shorts and shorts. We set out on the river and the dolphins were happy we were back in water. We were pretty sure they were the same ones we saw yesterday because one had a funny snorting way of breathing.

After an hour, we saw vultures gathering at the water's edge. We went over and saw that a grey dolphin had died. The vultures had pecked out its eyes and it smelled BAD. There were only a couple holes in the carcass. We scared away the vultures and fish moved in to work on it. Maybe later in trip I will cut open dead animals we come across and look for parasites.

The living dolphins did not come near but joined us when we set off again. We saw lots of birds nesting the safety of a bluff face. We left the dophins when we went off the main river channel.

We stopped at a floating convenience store for cokes. We found a nice beach to camp. As we appraoched, Dave's life vest got caught on the canoe and inflated.

There are lots of parrots here. We are happy to be away from town, with its loud music and electrical generators.

-Jay

Daily Data:

High Temp: 88
Low Temp: 72
Distance Traveled: 35 miles
Number of lifevests inflated: 1 (Dave inflated his by accident)

Tabocal, Brazil @ Tabocal, Brazil

2008-10-12T19:40:19.000Z

We had a spectacular weekend! It was getting late, and we were looking for a place to camp as we paddled past a small town. Dave noticed a building he recognized as a community house, so we stopped to ask if we could stay there.

The people were so nice. They not only let us stay, but they also opened the bathrooms, made sure the lights were working, and then they invited us to dinner. It was wonderful.

After dinner we sat around and talked with the family, with Tony interpreting. We learned that they sold fish in the Manaus market during the wet season and fruit in the dry season. They told us about the changes they've seen in the area during the last 30 years. Unfortunately, most of the changes included more farms and fewer animals. In the morning they brought us all sorts of cool things to see: a baby tortoise, ancient pottery, and a dead dung beetle for Jay.

Today we entered a parana, or smaller river. It's been really exciting. There are fewer people and the forest seems much thicker. There are still dolphins in the river, but in smaller pods. For me, the best part of the day came when I heard my first howler monkeys! Everyone on the team knew I wanted to hear them. When the monkeys started making noise everyone stopped paddling turned to me and said, "Hey Anne, hear that?" I had the biggest smile on my face.

Ate Logo-
Anne

Daily Data:

High Temp: 85
Low Temp: 77
Miles Traveled: 32
Cost of 1 kilo of mango: $0.50
# of Pacu Fish eaten: 18

Caiman on the Parana do Ramos @ Parana do Ramos, Brazil

2008-10-13T23:33:45.000Z

So much happened today, I'm not quite sure where to begin. . . . Thank you for deciding for us to take the Parana do Ramos! At first, paddling in this channel felt like a mini version of the main river. We still saw houses, small towns, and farms. However, there is evidence of more wildlife in this area.

This morning we woke up to the sound of howler monkeys. We also heard them later in the day. The farms that we paddle by are located right near the river, but we are able to see larger trees and dense jungle beyond the fields.

We spotted our first caiman of the trip today! This is the first real live caiman I have ever seen, so I was especially excited. It was about seven feet long--big enough to eat a small calf. The caiman was sunning itself on the riverbank. We paddled close to take photos. As we floated past, the caiman slipped into the water, floating with its head above the surface for a minute. Then it entirely disappeared under the murky water! I paddled a bit faster once I knew it was somewhere nearby underwater.

Tonight we are staying with a wonderful family that showed us around their farm. They have cattle, chickens, a variety of fruit trees, and two types of honey bees. Half of the team is spending the night in their house. The other half is spending the night on their flutuante, which is a building on a raft. This flutuante serves as a store for passing boaters. Another fish dinner awaits us, so I will say tchau for now!

-Amy

Daily Data:

High temp: 95 F
Low temp: 80 F
Miles traveled: 30
Caiman seen: 2
Cashew fruit eaten: 9

Squirrel Monkeys and Sand Bars @ Paraná Urariá, Brazil

2008-10-14T19:11:32.000Z

We were sad to leave the flutuante this morning. The Teixeira family has been so nice to us. We took group photos, said "thank you" to each family member, and finally we were off.

One of the highlights of the day came when Eric spotted squirrel monkeys. They were eating fruit in a tree near shore. We all watched the monkeys in awe. It was a wonderful reminder that, despite the many farms, we are in the rainforest.

At the moment we are setting up camp on a sandbar/island. Howler monkeys are howling in the distance and dolphins are playing in the water just off shore. It's been another great day.

Ate Logo-
Anne

Daily Data:

High Temp: 94 F
Low Temp: 85 F
Miles Traveled: 27
Liters of water consumed: 24
Number of swim breaks: 4

Water Buffalo @ Ilha do Limão, Brazil

2008-10-15T19:28:06.000Z

Today was our fourth day on the Parana Ramos. We left our little island campsite, and paddled under a clear, sunny sky. Luckily we had some wind to keep us cool.

Sometime before lunch we stopped in a small town to get water. As we climbed up the riverbank to the town, I noticed that there were many mango trees around. As we were filling our water jug from the town well, someone invited us over to his backyard. He showed us a gigantic container full of ripe mangoes! We chatted for a while, telling him about our trip. He offered us a bag full of about two dozen mangoes. We sure were happy to get those. We climbed back into our canoes, just floating downriver for a while, eating mangoes.

Throughout the rest of the day we passed by many farms and cattle ranches. Most of the animals that we saw were domesticated: cows, goats, dogs, and horses. We still saw a good variety of birds: terns, cattle egrets, kingfishers, and toucans.

Near the end of the day we heard hooves pounding up on the riverbank. The sound came from a herd of water buffalo. There were two men on horses near the back of the herd, driving them home for the evening.

Tonight we are camped near the edge of a cow pasture. Some clouds are moving in as the sun is going down, so we're hoping for a nice rain to cool things off.

Daily Data

High Temp: 90 F
Low Temp: 82 F
Miles Traveled: 32
Number of mangoes eaten: 12

A Narrow Escape! @ Bom Futuro, Brazil

2008-10-16T19:42:42.000Z

I woke up with a shocking bright light in my face and some commotion in the tent. Jay had his headlamp shining in my face, and told me that a crab had just crawled across his chest as he was sleeping. He flashed his light toward me. Sure enough, there was a red crab, about 4" long. It was un-nervingly close to my head. Now, there's a first: a crab in the tent.

We woke up a few hours later, and got an early start on the river. We are nearing the end of the Ramos River, and tomorrow we will be back on the Amazon's main channel.

We passed by a dense patch of rainforest this afternoon and decided to get out of the canoes and search for animals.

Walking through the rainforest during the dry season is totally new to us. Being able to walk through the forest without sloshing in mud and water is very comfortable compared to walking during the rainy season. There were fewer insects to annoy us, though still plenty of them around.

We saw huge trees with buttress root systems that keep them standing during the flooded times. Buttress roots are exposed roots systems that fan out very wide from the tree trunk to offer added support.

Jay spent his time in the woods looking for insects and other small critters. He found bullet ants, several species of beetles, and lots of termites. We also spotted a brilliant-thighed poison dart frog, darkish in color with yellow striped legs. It was a fantastic day on the river!

Daily Data:

High Temp: 85
Low Temp: 77
Miles Traveled: 31
Hours Paddling: 9

Stormy Weather @ Ilha Pau-mulato, Brazil

2008-10-19T22:58:25.000Z

We had another great weekend. I will try to sum up everything that happened.... On Friday, our new friend Waldemar showed us his dairy. His 100 cows are milked once a day, every day and we had a chance to watch the milking. Wow! What a tough job!

Later in the day on Friday, Waldemar found us out on the river. He was using his motorboat to take his cheese to market. He gave us some mangoes and said goodbye. He was wearing a Christmas sweatshirt in 95 degree heat.

On Saturday, we paddled out onto the main river. After getting used to the Parana Ramos, the main river channel seemed very large. The current definitely moves faster on the main river.

We woke up on Sunday morning to abnormally cool weather and dark clouds on the horizon. We packed up camp very quickly to avoid the rain. Shortly after getting on the water, the wind picked up and the clouds let loose. This was the most intense rainstorm so far. We paddled past steep mud banks. Occasionally part of the bank would fall off into the river, making a huge splash! Within an hour, the rain and wind stopped and we spent the rest of the day paddling in calm water, under overcast skies.

On Sunday we passed into a different state. We had been in the state of Amazonas, and now we are in Para. There was also a time zone change, so we will have to get used to the time being one hour earlier here.

Daily Data

High Temp: 89
Low Temp: 78
Miles Traveled: 34 on Friday, 37 on Saturday, 28 on Sunday
Number of bananas eaten: 12
Inches of water bailed out of the canoes: 3

Tony's Birthday @ Ábidos, Brazil

2008-10-20T21:30:44.000Z

The canoeing day began by taking the pot back to our neighbor across the canal. They were very nice to bring us fish last night. A few minutes later a black caiman was spotted! We were excited, as it was the biggest caiman we have seen. It was swimming between us and the river bank. All we could see was its enormous head; based on that it was over 2 meters long!

We pulled out cameras and snapped photos. As we paddled with to within 20 meters, it quickly submerged. We did not see it again. Larger black caimans can be aggressive - they feed on livestock and recently ate a boy upstream.

We also saw a group of fishermen bow fishing for turtles. They did this out of canoes. The man in the front of each canoe held a large bow and arrows. There was a small rope attached to the spear so they could pull in their catch or retrieve missed arrow shots.

Later this afternoon we paddled past the city of Obidos. It was founded as a Portuguese fort around the year 1534 to protect the area from river pirates and Spanish explorers intent on plundering the natural resources. The city is located at the narrowest and deepest part of the Amazon River between Manaus and the mouth of the river.

When we went swimming, we noticed that the river is colder, especially around upwellings. This is probably due to the lack of warming sunlight penetrating the depths. The Portuguese picked this spot because they could shoot cannons all the way across the river. Today, the city looks like many of the bigger towns we have past, with a port, big buildings, paved streets and power lines.

All day we have been doing little things to celebrate Tony's birthday. At lunch we stopped for a swim, and he got to pick the type of noodles at dinner. After dinner Tony brought out cookies for everyone and we sang to him "Happy Birthday."

Ate Logo-
Anne

Daily Data

High 92
Low 76
Miles Traveled 29

Sloth Sighting @ Ilha Marmatubinha, Brazil

2008-10-21T20:43:03.000Z

Today, we again experienced how nice the people of Brazil are. We stopped for lunch at a beach where a few kids were swimming. As we pulled up, more people came out to see what was going on. Within a few minutes we had drawn a crowd of people. They were excited to show us around their community.

A few years ago they had rescued a three-toed sloth that was drowning. They now have many sloths living in the area. They showed us two, a mother and a baby, that were in a low tree.

We were really excited to see the sloth. At the start of the trip, Jay had a list of animals he really wanted to see, and a sloth was one of the last on his list. It was a really cool animal sighting.

They also sat around and talked to us (with Tony interpreting) while we ate our lunch. They told us about their town and what it was like to live in a fishing community. After lunch, most of the community walked with us back to our boats.

The people along the Amazon are really surprised when we tell them we are going from Manaus to Belem by canoe. It is really unusual to use a boat without a motor to travel a significant distance. Some people still paddle their boats for local trips, but not for long distances.

Our boats and paddles are very different from what the people of the Amazon are used to seeing. All the local canoe paddles are hand-carved out of a single piece of wood, with a leaf-shaped blade. The small boats around in this area are all made out of wood.

People frequently pick up our paddles to test how they feel. They see that the blades are unusual (made out of carbon fiber) and they are very lightweight. They also notice that our canoes are made out of plastic. We get a lot of strange looks. It seems like they would not trust our boats for our long trip.

Ate Logo-
Anne

Daily Data

High Temp: 90
Low Temp: 78
Miles traveled: 33
Sloths seen: 2
Consecutive days of rice and bean lunches: 14

Dourada: A Well-Traveled Fish @ Lago Piracacira, Brazil

2008-10-22T19:52:32.000Z

Despite a near constant headwind, the river has been very enjoyable and scenic during the past two days. We've been skirting around islands and sandbars which are home to hundreds of shorebirds. Terns, egrets, herons, anis, swifts, and ibis are seen on a daily basis. Large raptors, like caracaras, hawks, and osprey are also common sights along the riverbanks and in flight. Of course there are always numerous vultures circling the skies overhead.

The number of fishing boats has also increased. Small communities are spread out along the riverbank and we see evidence of fishing almost all day long. Tonight we are staying in the front yard of a fisherman who has offered to cook us dourada, or gilded catfish. The dourada has a beautiful metallic sheen and a fascinating natural history. It has one of the longest migrations of any fish in the world. The dourada travels the entire length of the Amazon River, from the Atlantic Ocean to the Andes Mountains.

Young fish feed on the shrimp near the ocean and then travel over 2,500 miles upriver to spawn. During this journey, dourada need to swim up from salt water, through rapids to fresh water (an adaptation to water salinity called anadromous in fish). The newly born fish, called fry, and their parents then travel back down toward the Atlantic in a matter of weeks. Now that's an amazing Amazon animal!

Daily Data:

High Temp: 92
Low Temp: 80
Miles Traveled: 29
Mangoes Eaten: 9
Average # of Paddle Strokes per Minute: 43

Bug Report from Santarem @ Santarém, Brazil

2008-10-24T02:16:49.000Z

In last week's Cast Your Vote, you voted to learn more about insects.

Here is a special bug report by Jay:

We have seen many bombadier beetles. My hand is still stained from 10 days ago when I grabbed one.

I also saw more beautiful beach tiger beetles. I got a 4 centimeter
black tiger beetle with 1 centimeter long fangs. Tiger beetles are voracious predators of other animals, and the one I captured put a couple holes in my finger too. They are common in moist sandy areas in the Amazon and USA.

I also captured a mole cricket. There were many attracted to our lights and some got in our tent. They have large spines on their front legs for digging, which made folks "dance" as we discovered them in our sleeping gear.

We have also seen many large lightning bugs. Most are about 3 cm long, 1 cm wide - slightly bigger and more colorful than the ones in the USA. Lightning bugs produce cool light using a chemical reaction. They produce light (visible radiation energy) without wasting energy as heat. Our light bulbs waste some electrical energy that is converted to heat.

We have seen many ants. Leafcutter ants carry leaves to the nest to make gardens They grow mushroom-like fungus on the chewed up leaves.

We see many Aztec ants which live in cecropia trees. Cecropia trees are adapted to the flooded areas and are very common. They provide the ants a home in hollow branches and the ants keep other organisms out of the trees. This is called a mutualism because they both benefit from the relationship. (Sloths eat cecropia leaves and I don't know how they can withstand these stinging ants!)

I also captured a bullet ant. They have a very powerful sting, said to be the most painful of all insects. Tough grown men are said to cry all day when stung. Some native people test their bravery by putting their hand in mitten full of these ants. I acted tough scooping one into a jar but was VERY careful not to get stung.

We had a short paddle (13 miles) to Santarem today. The wind was in our face and the waves made the paddle seem longer. Only a mile away, across a lake, we had to stop because the waves were threatening to swamp our canoes. I had my life vest on, but I am glad we stopped and didn't lose any of our equipment. The other team members are good paddlers so I rely on their judgement and the rain covers that keep some water out of the canoe.

When we got to Santarem, everyone carried our gear and canoes a few blocks to our hotel. After spending weeks on the river, showers and airconditioning are real treats. Later, we went grocery shopping and then had a relaxing evening. Everyone is eager to check out the town tomorrow.

-Jay

Daily Data

High Temp: 89 F
Low Temp: 77 F
Miles Traveled: 13

Captions:

The day began like most of our days, paddling. However, we were all excited because we knew we would reach Santerem today.

We were forced to take a break because of high wind and we did not have much choice about where to pull over. Jay walked through a little mud in the process.

We had to wait within sight of Santerem for the weather to improve.

This is the view of the street from our hotel.

In between the harbor and the town is a long skinny park. There we found this huge tucunare and thought it was pretty neat.

Shopping at the local grocery story we found some familiar food. The items on the left are similar to yams and on the right the squash are just like ones found in the United States.

Huge Trees and Waves Keep Us In Santarem @ Santarém, Brazil

2008-10-26T18:52:00.000Z

The team has spent the entire weekend in Santarem. On Friday, Anne, Tony, Jay, and I attempted to visit the Manatee Rehabilitation Center. We found out that the center had recently closed, releasing its last manatee just a week or two ago. After finding out this disappointing news, we decided to visit the place that came in second in last week's Cast Your Vote, the forest preserve.

After an hour-long drive on rough dirt roads, we arrived at the entrance of the FLONA, Floresta Nacional do Tapajos (the National Forest of Tapajos) at the town of Sao Domingos. A man named Francisco guided us on a three-hour hike into the rainforest.

We saw differences in the forest floor as we hiked uphill. The ground was sandy to begin with. Many palms were growing in the area. Francisco explained that this part of the forest had been cut 20 years ago. As we walked, the trees got bigger, and the soil changed from sand to clay. The path we were hiking on had been used for many years by people living below the hill. They would hike up to the clay soil in order to plant their crops, because it was more fertile.

We passed from this second-growth forest into an area that contained some very old trees. The first large tree that we visited was 300 years old! The oldest and largest tree was about 450 years old, and 8 feet in diameter. After paddling past so many cattle ranches and deforested areas, it was very reassuring to see that trees this old and large still existed somewhere.

During the hike, we saw many insects. Our trail crossed highways of several different species of ants. At one point I thought we had disturbed a bat. It turned out to be a huge moth! We also spotted several Morpho butterflies, crickets, and spiders.

On Saturday morning, we were ready to leave Santarem. We transported our gear and one canoe to the waterfront, only to discover large waves out on the river. The wind was blowing at about 20 miles per hour. Slightly discouraged, we returned to our hotel and spent another day in Santarem.

I think that we are lucky to have spent one more day in Santarem, because later on Saturday, Tony came down with the flu. On Sunday he was feeling better, but not still 100%, so we spent Sunday in Santarem too!

Tchau!
Amy

Daily Data

High Temp: 93
Low Temp: 75
Miles Traveled: 0
Age of largest tree seen at FLONA: 450 years

The Melon Boat @ Ilha Ituqui, Brazil

2008-10-28T00:05:11.000Z

This morning we cheered as we paddled away from Santarem. We had spent 4 days resting, eating, and exploring the city. It felt good to sit in an air conditioned room, eat ice cream, and take a shower, but the river life is where we thrive. It feels good to be back on the river.

After a few miles, the sights and sounds of the city faded. Herons and terns were our only companions. The clear blue waters of the Tapajos River slowly mixed with the Amazon's rich brown waters. We were amazed by how long it took for the two giant rivers to completely mix.

Gray and Pink River Dolphins leapt from the mixing waters, hurling their whole bodies completely out of the water. Several times dolphins bumped the bottoms of our canoes, causing us to yelp with surprise. It was the first time that dolphins have ever nudged our boats.

In the middle of the day, a motor boat loaded with dozens of melancias (watermelons) headed for the market in Santarem. Tony and Jay paddled over and motioned that they wanted a melon. The teenage boy driving the boat quickly tossed a huge melancia overboard. Jay wrestled the slippery melon into their canoe and we all cheered, knowing that we would devour the tasty treat as soon as we got to camp.

Listening to the water lapping at the water's edge, and watching the sun cast a golden glow over the giant kapok tree behind our camp is the prefect ending to another successful day in the Amazon.

Daily Data:

High Temp: 92
Low Temp: 84
Miles Traveled: 29
Average # of Watermelon pieces per team member: 5
# of Ocean Tankers Passed: 4

Schoolboat @ Ilha Curuá, Brazil

2008-10-28T19:18:30.000Z

Today was a very challenging day of paddling because of strong wind. Normally if we stop paddling for a few minutes, we float with the river and move between 0.5 and 3 kilometers per hour. For large parts of the day today, if we stopped paddling, the wind pushed us backwards!

One thing that kept us entertained today where the swifts. A swift is a small black and white bird. They almost look like little jet planes. We watched them flying relatively high, and then suddenly they would drop into a dive. A second before hitting the water they would pull up and skim along just above the surface.

This afternoon as we paddled along we saw a row of kids standing on a dock waiting for their school bus - or rather, school boat. It was a clearly recognizable activity even though it was very different from the way we do it at home.

I had one more adventure today. I found a patch of ground that acted like quick sand! I was walking down to the river to get water for dinner and before I knew it I was in mud up to my hips. This gave the whole team a good laugh.

Ate Logo-
Anne

Daily Data

High Temp: 91 F
Low Temp: 76 F
Miles Traveled: 24
Rate of Travel: 2.7 miles per hour
Sunrise: 6:14 AM
Sunset: 3:25 PM
Moonrise: 5:44 AM
Moonset: 3:12 PM

A Stiff Wind @ Rio Cuçari, Brazil

2008-10-30T01:49:50.000Z

We got up and had our usual oatmeal with flaccos and peanut butter. We only paddled for a mile into a stiff wind, and the experts said we should pull over. The waves were big and erratic, even close to shore. I'm always happy to be off the water and get the chance to look for wildlife.

At first we rested under a tree, and I followed leafcutter ants taking food back into their forest home. The wind kept up, so at 12:00pm, we walked back on cow trails to lakes north of the river. The trail was only a few hundred meters long, but was disorienting with all the plant vegetation.

We saw a caiman lurking, perhaps hoping to ambush piranha, egrets, or horned screamers. Horned screamers are bigger than turkeys and have barbs on their "elbows" they can use for defense. We also got pictures of large cat paw prints. this made the cow-path scary with low plants and hiding places. We heard lizards scurry and pretty ani birds complain about our being close to its home. We got a close picture of the dark crow-sized bird with a 3" bright red bill. I photographed several metallic colored beetles.

Frosty wasn't feeling well so we've camped here. A fisherman sold us a dourada, a large shimmering catfish. I was excited to see him fillet it. My growling stomach will be very happy too. The vultures are enjoying the fish head and three unruly colts (baby horses) just came by, which scared the vultures away, for now. Luckily horses don't eat fish.

Daily Data
High Temp: 93
Low Temp: 79
Miles Traveled: 1 :(

Pre-Dawn Paddling @ Rio Mulata, Brazil

2008-10-30T22:42:44.000Z

It felt like the middle of the night when we woke up. We decided as a group to wake up at 4:00 AM. Our goal was to paddle for a few hours before the wind picked up. Then we would have a long lunch break while the wind was strongest (usually 10:00 AM to 1:00 PM). In the afternoon, the wind normally calms down, so we could continue paddling until about 5:00 PM.

After a spartan breakfast of crackers and peanut butter in the dark, we set out. After an hour of paddling, the first rays of sun were coming over the horizon, and the forest began to wake up. Parrots and other birds called and soared over our heads. The wind and waves were calm and peaceful, and we made good progress.

A little after 10:00 AM the wind and waves increased. We pointed the canoes to a smaller side channel and pulled into a small village for some water. Soon after filling our water bottles, we were having lunch of fried fish and cold Coca Colas. What a treat!

Yesterday was the first day that we've noticed the tide changing the Amazon's water levels. Even though we are still 500 miles from the Atlantic Ocean, the Amazon River is subject to rising and lowering tides. The tide changes every six hours. We have to start being careful about where we leave our canoes for the night. If we don't pull them up far enough on shore, the tide could possibly sweep them out into the river!

We are all excited to dress up for Halloween. On Monday you will have a chance to see our costumes.

Daily Data

High Temp: 90
Low Temp: 75
Miles Traveled: 29
Sunrise: 6:13
Sunset: 18:24
Moonrise: 7:16
Moonset: 19:48

Jack-o'-Melon @ Brazil

2008-11-02T21:30:39.000Z

We are either getting used to the wind, or it wasn't blowing quite as hard over the weekend. On Friday, we paddled 29 miles. Then we camped on a beautiful, white sand beach near a small town. We were greeted by a dozen children. They said that they came to the beach to work on a project for school. They thought it was really interesting to see adventure travelers. The children watched us set up camp and one girl even took photos with her camera phone.

On Saturday, we stopped in town briefly to resupply and then paddled hard all day. There was definitely more wind on Saturday, but there were no waves near shore. At the end of the day, we entered a small channel off the main river. Within two minutes of entering this channel, we saw a troop of squirrel monkeys! After about a mile, we asked a family if we could camp near their house. They agreed and we enjoyed staying on their farm. We had a small Halloween party here. Instead of dressing up, we decided to carve a watermelon like a jackolantern. Even though they thought we were pretty weird (Brazilians don't celebrate Halloween), they let us put our jackolantern on their porch for the night. Chickens and pigs were wandering around the area where we set up our tents. We were also camped near a small electric fence. About 100 water buffalo were hanging out just on the other side of that fence.

As we paddled the length of the channel on Sunday, we noticed that most people in the area are raising water buffalo instead of European cattle. About halfway through the day, we saw a flock of vultures feasting on a small, dead water buffalo. A dog came and scared them off.

We were all glad to spend most of the day on the small channel. The wind was pretty strong, but waves didn't build in this small waterway. After 18 miles of paddling on the channel, we entered the main river again. Paddling close to shore kept us safe despite the rolling waves.

Tchau!
Amy

Daily Data

High Temp: 90 F
Low Temp: 74 F
Miles Traveled: 29 on Friday, 23 on Saturday, 24 on Sunday
Number of Pacu fish that jumped into our canoes: 2
Treat of the day: hot dog buns with butter (2 per person)

Sunrise 6:09
Sunset 18:20
Moonrise 9:43
Moonset 22:15

Trees Grow...In Canoes?! @ Brazil

2008-11-03T17:00:07.000Z

We had a very muddy campsite last night. Water buffalo sniffed around the tents, but before they had a taste of our stuff, Dave chased them off by banging two paddles together.

We had another stiff headwind today. I saw a neat water scorpion but did not have a way to scoop it up (without getting stung!). We saw several dead plecosomous fish, which are sucker fish seen cleaning many home aquariums.

We saw some new kinds of boats. Some had sails, although a guy using a tree branch may not count. We passed by an older gentleman paddling a dugout canoe with a seven foot scrappy tree planted in his canoe that he said he was using as a sail. Interesting idea.

We stopped by a saw mill and saw lots of different hardwood trees. Many people think logging is the main cause of rainforest destruction, but ranching is thought to be a more severe problem.

We battled the wind into the town of Almerin and found water, fuel, and some food. I saw a large spotted catfish near the dock in town, but had to settle for a small lunch (& 6 dinner rolls for "dessert"). We talked about the plan to get across the river, and how we may need to get a lift of a big boat if the wind and tide are dangerous toward the end of the trek.

We are camped at a nice isolated spot with lots of forest. Squawking macaws just flew over head!

Daily Data:

High Temp: 90
Low Temp: 74
Miles Traveled: 24

Sunrise: 6:08
Sunset: 18:18
Moonrise: 10:32
Moonset: 23:02

Dollars Spent on 3 days of Groceries for 6 people: $31.50

Monkey Play @ Brazil

2008-11-05T07:20:56.000Z

Today started out like most others. We paddled along, ate lunch, and it didn't seem like too much out of the ordinary was in store. We were very wrong!

This afternoon was a great day for viewing wildlife. We saw the largest troop of squirrel monkeys we've ever encountered. There had to be 30 or 40 individuals bouncing from tree to tree right along the river bank. We got to watch them for longer than we normally get to see monkeys. Monkeys, especially small ones, are very shy, quick, and easily camouflaged in the tree tops. However today's troop seemed playful and gave us lots of time to watch.

We also saw several toucans, which we haven't seen in nearly two weeks. Macaws screamed from high in the canopy, and the forest hummed with the sound of buzzing insects. This was interrupted by what looked like a red-bellied piranha jumping out of the water and crashing into the side of the canoe I was paddling. It was a loud thump that nearly caused my heart to stop!

Tonight we are camped in a small community of seven houses. We were treated to a dinner of fried and grilled pacu (a large round, silver fish that actually hears sound using its backbone). We asked many questions about life along this remote and wild section of the Amazon. The closest town is nearly 2 hours away by boat. The people here fish and hunt, and generally live in a traditional way - the same way people have lived for hundreds of years. It's getting to meet people like this that makes traveling the Amazon worth every hardship.

Daily Data:

High Temp: 92
Low Temp: 71
Miles Traveled: 26

Sunrise: 6:07
Sunset: 18:17
Moonrise: 11:19
Moonset: 23:47

Bars of Soap Lost in the River by Anne: 3

Love-Sick Water Buffalo @ Brazil

2008-11-06T23:15:14.000Z

The morning began with a love-sick water buffalo loudly bellowing - like a giant frog - as it looked for its mate. There was no sleeping in today with that creature nearby. Shortly after the water buffalo serenade, we heard howler monkeys in the distance. It has been a while since we have heard them.

As we made our morning oatmeal, we turned on the computers (something we normally only do at night) to check who won the election. Congratulations, Mr. Obama!

Around two in the afternoon we heard distant music. We came around a bend in the river, and a small community came into view.

"Maybe we should stop there and stretch our legs," suggested Dave. It was a particularly hot afternoon, and we thought it was a great idea. It turned out to be even better than any of us could have imagined. The community welcomed us to a heap of fried shrimp and guarana, a South American soft drink. Amazon freshwater shrimp were a new food for us.

The community was part of a shrimping cooperative. They used to shrimp all year long. A few years ago, the community decided to shrimp only for six months. What they found was that the average shrimp they started catching was twice as big. Bigger shrimp fetch a higher price.

On Wednesday evening we experienced a huge storm. Just as we were sitting down to dinner, a dark cloud passed overhead and the wind picked up. All of us had to work to keep our tents anchored to the ground throughout the wind. Standing outside in the wind and rain for an hour, holding onto the tents, was not very fun. This is why there was no update yesterday.

Thursday was a much better day. The sun was out and there was not much wind to speak of. We had a short paddle to the town of Gurupa, where we resupplied. Now we are camped near a small farmhouse tucked in the rainforest.

Daily Data:

High Temp: 93 F
Low Temp: 79 F
Miles Traveled: 24

Number of butterflies fluttering across the river over the past two days: 56
Number of bananas purchased: 26

Skirting Pirates @ Breves, Brazil

2008-11-09T20:44:32.000Z

This has been a weekend full of changed plans. On Friday we where going to begin paddling the channels between Gurupa and Breves. However, repeated reports of river pirates in the area caused us to re-think this plan. We spent Friday as a rest day, doing laundry and drying out gear, while Tony and Dave went back to Gurupa to get more information about our options.

We decided our best choice was to get on a passenger riverboat on Saturday morning, which would take us through the channels in one day. What a fun choice! The boat had three levels, all open to let in breeze and excellent views of the river. Our gear was stored on the bottom level and we hung two hammocks next to it so we could watch our things. We spent the day rotating between the hammocks and chairs on the top deck, where there was a small cafe and a great view.

The channels were beautiful. We spent a lot of time wishing we were in our canoes and pointing out good campsites. But, we made it to Breves safely. The only people to board the boat mid-trip were children selling jars of heart of palm, dried shrimp, and bags of acai (ah-sigh-ee) berry juice.

Watching the kids board the boat was fascinating. They would paddle up in small wooden canoes and as our big boat passed they would through a grappling hook at the boat. They would only get one chance to hook the boat. Next they would pull their canoe against the momentum of the river boat until the nose of their canoes were completely out of the water - these kids are strong! They would tie a few good knots and then go back and forth between the canoe and the river boat, selling their goods.

Today we are spending the day in Breves. We want to make sure all team members are in top shape for the last leg of the trip.

Ate Logo-
Anne

Daily Data

High Temp: 92 F
Low Temp: 79 F
Miles Traveled: 125! (by riverboat)

Sunrise: 6:00
Sunset: 18:11
Moonrise: 15:01
Moonset: 2:37

Hours spent on the riverboat: 11
Number of times fireworks have gone off in Breves: 16
Amount of ice cream consumed by the team last night: 1.4 kilograms

Learning About Tides @ Sao Luis, Brazil

2008-11-10T19:19:11.000Z

We left the city of Breves by 8:00 AM. As usual, whenever we leave a city there are chores to do before departing: finding clean water, buying bread, and finding a breakfast that is NOT oatmeal.

Breves is located on a small channel that is part of a maze of rivers. The channels are very interesting, because we get to see the plants close up and really get to observe the people who live here. Many of the people of who live around here catch freshwater shrimp to be sold in cities. We learned today that during full moon tides (which is approaching quickly) that shrimp are nearly impossible to catch.

The tide changes are now controlling our days. The tide changes roughly every six hours, alternating between water coming in from the sea and going out. I like to think of the tide like a pair of lungs inhaling and exhaling every six hours.

It is best to paddle when the tide is going out to sea, because there is more current to help us along. This afternoon we paddled while the tide was going out, and for the first time, the current was actually flowing upriver! Tomorrow, low tide (when the water is helping us by going out to sea) will begin around 6:00 AM. We will have to wake up early, but it also means that we'll get to stop paddling early in the afternoon and have a big lunch!

Tonight we're staying at a nice school. There are 300 students arriving tomorrow on eight boats at 7:30 AM. There are only 5 teachers in the whole school, and they know every student's name.

Daily Data:

High Temp: 94
Low Temp: 85
Miles Traveled: 20
Hours Traveled: 7

Sunrise: 5:59
Sunset: 18:10
Moonrise: 15:48
Moonset: 3:22

Cooking Over a Wood Fire @ Boa Uniao, Brazil

2008-11-11T17:36:07.000Z

It was still dark out when we woke up at 5:00 AM. Dave had already been up for a half an hour trying to get our camping stoves to boil water for coffee and oatmeal. Our stoves have nearly stopped working, so boiling water takes three times longer than normal.

Much of the morning was spent paddling through small, narrow channels. Dense forest was interrupted by small houses and very simple logging mills. People waved and greeted us with thumbs-up - the Brazilian way of saying hello. The maze of channels was navigated by maps and GPS; without them we would have no idea which direction to take.

Lunch was spent at a small platform house built over the water. We had to build a fire to cook our rice because of our non-functioning camping stoves. The fire worked very well, but turned our pots permanently black. It's all part of the adventure!

As we work on our computers, the smell of wood smoke is wafting in. Water is being boiled for our spaghetti dinner. The small community we're staying in is curious about us, but hospitable and welcoming. Many people have offered suggestions of routes to take in the coming days. The tropical, red sun is setting and the tide is rapidly going out. We're all trying to get a quick bath in before the shore becomes a giant mud pit. It's a classic evening on the Amazon River.

Daily Data:

High Temp: 95
Low Temp: 82
Miles Traveled: 25
Hours Traveled: 8

Sunrise: 5:58
Sunset: 18:09
Moonrise: 16:40
Moonset: 4:10

Beautiful Butterflies @ near Curralinho, Brazil

2008-11-12T21:31:46.000Z

Today's paddling was some of the best of the whole trip. Tight channels lined by thick, flooded rainforest surrounded us for most of the day. Morpho butterflies flew in zig zags through the forest and over the water. Morpho butterflies are some of the most spectacularly beautiful animals in the rainforest. Their vibrant aqua blue wings look like they are more likely to be found in a crayon box than in nature. The most interesting thing about morphos is that their wings aren't actually blue, but are translucent. The wings only can reflect the blue spectrum of light. I always consider myself lucky when I catch a glimpse of one fluttering through the forest. Today we saw nearly a dozen!

By noon we were only traveling 2 kilometers an hour. The tide was strongly working against us. We decided to find a spot to stay for the night, rather than fight the current.

We pulled into a cluster of three houses and asked to stay on a platform that seems like it is under construction. The people happily allowed us to stay for the night and cook over their fire. Their house is a perfect example of life in the Amazon. The house is built on stilts over the water. They raise chickens, ducks, pigs, and have a few dogs and cats. Their kitchen is outside in the back of their house, and they were preparing Oscar fish for lunch. Their house also acts as a local store where they sell farina, eggs from their chickens, crackers, and a few other standard supplies like pasta, canned meat and beef jerky.

We bought some eggs, dried shrimp, and farina for a special dinner tonight. Our goal is to make some sort of shrimp omelets. These will be our first eggs since leaving the United States. Yum! Yum!

Daily Data:

Miles Traveled: 14
Hours Traveled: 5
Morpho Butterflies Seen: 11
# of Eggs Eaten for Dinner: 24

Sunrise: 5:57
Sunset: 18:09
Moonrise: 17:37
Moonset: 5:03

An Accidental Swim @ near Curralinho, Brazil

2008-11-13T23:48:49.000Z

This morning we got a ride from a small boat into the nearby town of Curralinho. It was a fun ride. After spending so much time in canoes, it felt like we were in a big speed boat. In Curralinho we were looking for more information about bigger passenger boats between the next few towns and Belem. Where we are now, the river is too wide to cross by canoe. So at some point in the next few days we will have to take one of these boats to reach our final destination.

The most important thing we learned today is that Curralinho is the only town to get big boats on a regular basis. We decided to take a boat Sunday night to arrive in Belem early Monday morning.

When we got back to the Costa Carvalhos' home they seemed happy that we will be staying longer. They are going to show us more of their lives over the next two days.

Around camp today, we continued to struggle with the skinny boardwalks between the buildings. Most of the walkways are two or three logs wide, but in places it's only one log wide. Some of the logs are nailed down, some are tied together, and some are loose enough to wobble around. They are built high enough to avoid the water during high tide and to avoid the mud during low tide.

The Costa Carvalhos walk across these with confidence and skill, like they are walking on flat land. The team creeps along them, sometimes using long poles as walking sticks for help. Although we are getting a little better, I took my first fall off the walkway today. I have been getting around by swimming and by canoe ever since.

Ate Logo-
Anne

Daily Data:

Miles Traveled: 10
Time Traveling: 40 min

Sunrise: 5:57
Sunset: 18:09
Moonrise: 18:40
Moonset: 6:02

A Day at School @ Belem, Brazil

2008-11-16T23:01:03.000Z

My alarm sounded at 5:30 on Friday morning and the team rubbed their eyes and crawled out of bed. We were up earlier than normal because at 6 AM we would hop onto the local school boat and spend the day at a local school.

Lala, a local school boat driver, lives next door and at 6:00 he cranked the school boat's large engine and motored over to pick us up. The tide was high and our house was surrounded by water. Lala pulled the bow of the school boat up to the house and we filed onto the boat. The doorway into the boat was tiny and Lala chuckled as we fumbled through the door that seemed more like a hobbit hole.

We chugged up river at 10 miles an hour for an hour and a half picking up students at every house we passed. We greeted each student by saying "Bom dia" (good morning) and their eyes grew wide when they noticed us. At each house Lala pulled the school boat up to the porch so that the students could board the school bus. Each carried a notebook and a pencil and they all sat quietly in rows along each side of the boat.

At each house Lala turned off the engine before reaching the house and then turned the engine back on after the children had boarded the boat. To turn the engine on he had to crank a large handle about 10 times, as fast as he could, before the engine would sputter to life. Several of the 10 to 12 year old boys took turns helping Lala by starting the engine and driving the boat.

When we reached the school, students filed into three different classrooms. One classroom was for 1st and 2nd grade, one for 3rd and 4th grade, and one for 5th and 6th grade. Two school boats bring 66 students to school each day. All of the students were excited to see us, and the principal decided that we should talk to the whole school at the end of the day.

While we waited, Lala took us across the river to a small farm where they were growing manioc and making farina. The whole family was busy harvesting, peeling, and soaking the manioc. They were making about 200 pounds of farina to sell. We spent several hours with the family learning about farina and other foods that they grow on their farm.

At the end of the day we returned to the school for an assembly. All of the students crowded into one classroom and we told the students about our trip. Most of the students had heard of the United States, but but they did not know where it was, or anything about the United States. We used a map of the world to show them where the United States is and told them a little bit about what it is like to live in the United States.

We also asked the students many questions about what it is like to grow up in the Amazon. They told us that they like to play soccer after school for fun. Their favorite foods are chicken, pork, and fish. After school they also help their family with chores. Some of their chores include fishing, gathering water, washing clothes, and climbing up palm trees to gather Acai.

At the end of the day we climbed back onto the school boat and headed for home, dropping students off along the way. Moms and Dads waited by the door to greet their kids. Students laughed, played games, and talked about what they were going to do after they got off the boat. In many ways it was just like riding the bus home from school in the United States.

Keep exploring!

Dave

Daily Data:

Miles Traveled: 20
Time Traveling: 3 hours

Sunrise: 5:57
Sunset: 18:09
Moonrise: 18:40
Moonset: 6:02

Arriving in Belem! @ Belem, Brazil

2008-11-17T22:23:02.000Z

It was bittersweet to leave the Costa Carvalhos' home yesterday afternoon. Although the team was excited to get moving again, we were sad to leave these kind people. This family had welcomed us so warmly into their home; we will all miss them.

Benedicto gave us a tow into town. With our three canoes tied in a train behind his boat we were a bit of a spectacle, but it made for another fun motor boat ride. At the docks we ran into several of our new friends, Lala the schoolboat driver and the principal from the school we visited. They stayed with us until we had to get on the passenger barge to Belem.

The boat ride was a wild adventure. Curralinho is in the middle of many stops. When we got onboard, the boat was already crammed full of people. On top of this there was one more stop before Breves, where the barge was scheduled to pick up a semi-truck. This precarious load had many people nervous - it was nearly too big for the barge! Despite concerns and a largely sleepless night for our crew, the journey went smoothly.

Around 8 in the morning the boat rounded a bend in the river and Belem suddenly came into view. It is one of the biggest cities I have ever been in and its skyline is truly impressive. We had our last paddle as a group from the docks where the barge stopped to our hotel, conveniently right on the water's edge.

We looked around at our surroundings and at each other. We made it! From Manaus to Belem. Although we get a few days to explore the city of Belem, our trip in some ways is done. We had a big group hug and many congratulations went around.

Ate Logo-
Anne

Daily Data

Miles Traveled: many by motor boat and barge; about 2 by canoe
Time Traveling: 14 hours
Sunrise: 5:53
Sunset: 18:04
Moonrise: 22:47
Moonset: 10:14

Number of pineapples eaten by the team: 2
Weight of the dried shrimp given to us by the Costa Carvalho family: 1.5 kilograms

A Zoo Where Animals Roam Freely @ Belem, Brazil

2008-11-18T19:44:47.000Z

We had a busy day sightseeing today. There is no shortage of things to see in Belem. It is a very old city, with a long history. We spent the day checking out what it has to offer. Driving through crowded city streets was quite a contrast from canoeing.

Our first stop was Emilio Goeldi Museum and Zoo, since you voted for us to check it out in last week's Cast Your Vote. It is the oldest biological research station on the Amazon. It was founded in 1866 by a naturalist named Domingos Soares Ferreira Penna. It was named after Emilio Goeldi, a Swiss zoologist who made it what it is today.

The zoo has a great park-like feel to it amidst the hustle and bustle of Belem. The zoo has many Amazon animals on display, including several rare and endangered animals. We saw giant river otters, jaguars, panthers, tapirs, agouti, caiman, and several species of birds we've never seen in the wild. Some of the animals at the Emilio Goeldi Park and Zoo are in open-air cages, some are in closed cages, while others are allowed to roam the park freely, living among the amazing natural rainforest surroundings. Mahogany trees, kapoks, and hundreds of species of palms make the zoo feel more like a forest than a zoo. Trails zig and zag making the grounds feel very private, and natural.

Tomorrow we will wake up early to visit the main market. We are excited to see it, because over the past two months we have been seeing boats carrying all sorts of goods headed for this market. It will surely be loud, smelly, a little gross at times, but it will most likely be very interesting!

Daily Data:

High Temp: 89
Low Temp: 78
Sunrise: 5:53
Sunset: 18:04
Moonrise: 22:40
Moonset: 11:10

Ice Cream Flavors Tasted: Passion Fruit, Chocolate, Mango, Unknown Rainforest Fruit, and CHEESE (interesting, but wasn't very good)

Tony Says Goodbye @ Belem, Brazil

2008-11-19T22:48:08.000Z

This morning Tony left the group to head home to Sao Paulo. He is the first team member to go home and we already miss him. He has to leave today if he is going to make it home in time for his daughter’s birthday. He left early in the morning because he has a 4 day drive ahead of him. I crawled out of bed to give him a hug good bye and he laughed at my sleepy face and tousled hair.

After saying farewell to Tony, we had a small change of plans. Instead of visiting the market we packed up our belongings and switched hotels. We decided to make the switch because we found one close to the center of town – near all the places we want to visit – and we will go to market tomorrow.

Later in the day we visited the old Belem Fort, right on the river. The fort was first constructed in 1616 and is now a museum full of information about the history of the Portuguese who first built it and the indigenous groups of people that were in the area throughout the centuries. We were given a very thorough tour by a docent. It was an overwhelming amount of information to absorb, but we all agreed that colonial life in Belem was very hard for just about everyone.

We also visited the Museu Do Indio Do Para on a whim. Basically, we were walking past the building and Eric noticed an display of photography through the open door. Inside, we walked around an incredible exhibit about the Asurini Awaete people of the Xingu River (about 500 miles southwest of Belem). We really appreciated having the opportunity to learn about how native people are still living in traditional ways.

Ate Logo-

Anne

Daily Data:

High Temp: 83
Low Temp: 74
Number of hugs given to Tony: 11

The Market on Our Last Day In Brazil @ Belem, Brazil

2008-11-21T01:42:33.000Z

In a few hours we will board an airplane to fly back home. Several emotions are running high: excitement, sadness, anxiousness, and a great sense of accomplishment. We are proud of ourselves for completing the Trans-Amazon Expedition and staying safe and healthy.

Our last day in Brazil was a fun one. We slept in until 8:00 AM and then took a bus to Belem's Central Market. Medicinal plants, tonics, potions, and other curiosities filled a large section of the market. There were tonics for strength and energy, love potions, and cures for just about any sickness or disease. There was even a shampoo made from a snake - the dead snake was in the jar! We couldn't resist buying some, but no one is lining up to try it out.

Nearly every rainforest fruit I have ever seen (and many I've never heard of) were for sale. The fruit section of the market smelled wonderful.

It's hard to say that the fish market smelled as good as the fruit market. Yet, it was one of the most complete fish markets I've ever been in. We saw at least 20 Amazonian fish species. We also saw ocean fish and shrimp for the first time. The biggest surprise was seeing an entire 8-foot paiche fish. They are a highly endangered air breathing fish. It was sad to see, but interesting to be able to view it close up.

We spent a little while in the Museu Do Indio again. Anne and Amy got treated to a traditional black blody painting similar to henna. Their new "bracelets" should last for 10 days, by which time we'll all be back to our daily lives far from our Brazilian friends, the Amazon River, and rainforest which has meant so much to us. The memories of this expedition will continue to last a lifetime.

Daily Data:

High Temp: 92
Low Temp: 75
Price of paiche per kilo: USD $12
Number of airplanes to take home: 3

Sunrise: 5:53
Sunset: 18:05
Moonrise: 00:28
Moonset: 12:49